WISHLIST: Diptyque, Eau de Lierre

Diptyque's new Eau de Lierre at Aedes.com

"The sheer peppery notes of Eau de Lierre introduce the heart of ivy and iris, as delicate as a cool spring breeze. Supported by a base of white musk and silky woods, Eau de Lierre remains verdant and sparkling, like a transparent veil of dew on young green leaves." Aedes.com

REVIEW: Romeo Gigili Woman (2004)

Notes: Mandarin, Tagetes, Melon Cantaloupe, Green Tea, Violet Leaves, Sea Breeze, Rose Morocco, Indian Jasmine, White Nymphaea, Lotus Flowers, Licorice, Orris Florence, Musk, Cedarwood, Benzoin Siam, Vanilla Zanzibar.

Pros: An unusual floriental with fresh green overtones and a warm musky base.

Cons: Hard to find as its been discontinued.

Reminds me of: Insense for Men (with its musky-woody basenotes); Kenzo Le Monde est Beau ( with its sunny citrus and florals); Eau de Monteil (with its sweet dewy notes).

Development: Moves from powdery floral to fresh, watery green notes and back again before settling into a sweet, musky woods aroma.

Longevity: Excellent, one full spray lasted a good 6 hours on my wrist.

Sillage: Enough so that it could be sensed by my friends without overwhelming them.

Where can I buy it? $29.99 for a 1.3 oz edp spray at BeautifulPerfumes.com.

Bottleworthy? If you enjoy unusual or powdery florals.

The Bottom Line: I love this scent - utterly unique. My favorite of Romeo Gigli's women's scents, I love the combinations (melon, green tea and violet) of notes. As good as its men's counterpart, Gigli Woman is an unusual and beautiful fragrance that really shines as it dries on the skin revealing an almost incense-like woody melange of basenotes. The strong floral topnotes might be a bit much for some, but once they relax, the scent becomes even more alluring.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

Which women's florals do you find utterly unique?

REVIEW: Romeo Gigli Man (2004)

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Yuzu, Mirth, Cinnamon, Geranium, Pepper, Bamboo, Patchouli, Hiba Wood, Musk.

Pros: A tangy, aromatic aroma that makes great use of some of my favorite notes.

Cons: Discontinued; not a very heavy scent - would love a little more depth.

Reminds me of: T Gregory; Celine pour Homme.

Development: Though the citrus plays a huge role in the beginning stages, the spice notes and musk play a larger role in the drydown.

Longevity: Moderate; it goes on strong but then quickly relaxes.

Sillage: Subtle but present.

Where can I buy it? $33.99 for a 3.4 oz edt spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? A great men's scent to add to any collection

The Bottom Line: By no means groundbreaking or exceptional, Romeo Gigli Man is not nearly the rich oriental that his first men's scent was. What it is, however, is the Gigli version of CK Contradiction, only better - a light peppery citrus with smooth musk and wood notes. Easy to wear and great for any occasion, this addition to the Gigli fragrance collection helps to confirm my belief that it's hard to go wrong with a Gigli scent. I have no idea why this one wasn't as popular as it could have been - I love it.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

What's your take on the scents of Romeo Gigli?

WEBSITES and E-TAILERS: Beauty Addict Magazine's Blog

REVIEW: Guerlain, Habit Rouge (1965)

Notes: Orange, Limette, Lemon, Bergamot, Spices, Patchouli, Vanilla, Leather notes.

Pros: Timeless. Fresh enough for warmer weather, sophisticated enough for evening.

Cons: "Timeless" may also spell "outdated" to some.

Reminds me of: Roger Gallet Extra Vielle.

Development: Minimal.

Longevity: The current EDT lasts very well on me. This is no tame fragrance.

Sillage: Just right.

Where can I buy it? $21.38 for a 3.4 oz edt spray tester at Scentiments.com

Bottleworthy? Everyone's gotta try this at least once...and for that price, why not go whole hog?

The Bottom Line: One of Guerlain's more recent masterpeices, Habit Rouge is unquestionably one of the finest examples of 20th century men's perfumery. But does it smell good? Well yes; an unusual blend of vanilla and citrus with powdery leather basenotes, Habit Rouge always reminds me of a fine, full-bodied gin. Picture a sleek 1960's mahogany and chrome bar. Perched atop is a heavy crystal glass filled with an aromatic clear liquid and ice. The air is perfumed with Habit Rouge as a young Sinatra croons in the background...

Rating (out of 10): 8

Decants available, email me!

Have you experienced Habit Rouge?

REVIEW: Penhaligon's Opus 1870 (2005)

Notes: Black pepper, clove rose, warm woods, musk.

Pros: Light, unassuming, surprisingly fresh considering the notes.

Cons: Sillage and longevity are minimal.

Reminds me of: Has the same lightness as Sander for Men; L'Artisan Navegar; similar framework as Hermes Rocabar.

Development: None really...The pepper quickly fades leaving a light, rose and woods aroma.

Longevity: Minimal - 2 hours that I could actually smell it on me, and then it stayed close to the skin.

Sillage: Quiet.

Where can I buy it? $80 for a 100ml spray at Penhaligons.

Bottleworthy? Better try this one first...

The Bottom Line: I'm a huge fan of Hammam and Endymion, and have an appreciation for many of the others, so it was with high hopes that I blindly purchased this. Truly a simple and sophisticated scent for warmer weather, Opus 1870 is a quiet fragrance that stays close to the skin. The rose lends a sweet floral hint, but most of the fragrance's personality comes from the warm woods. Reminding me of a "Rocabar Light", I almost detect a little leather and tobacco. I think this could easily be a holy grail scent for some folks, so best not to dismiss this one and try and give it some time on your skin. I still can't decide whether I like it or I'll pass on it....

Rating (out of 10): 6

Decants available, email me!

What's your favorite Penhaligon's scent?

MUST-READS: Monsieur de Givenchy Review at NowSmellThis

Click the pic to read my review of Monsieur de Givenchy
at NowSmellThis!

Decants available, email me!

MUST-READS: New interview with Rene Laruelle at Basenotes

Modern Perfumer Inspired by Scents of the Past:

An interview with René Laruelle

Click the above pic to read the latest of Scenteur7's interviews with noteworthy perfumers.

MULTIMEDIA: Be Warned

click the pic to watch the video

This stuff needs to come with a second warning specifically for teenage boys:
Not to be used in place of actual bathing.

SNIFFING AROUND: 2 from TJ Maxx - Hula Girl and Eau Vitaminee

Spent some time browsing TJ Maxx yesterday and here's a couple of lesser known, though completely interesting finds...


Hula Girl Cocount and Vanilla Body Mist

Notes: Coconut, vanilla

Pros: Kitschy packaging and low pricepoint; would make a swell gag gift - no pun intended.

Cons: Smells like a Vanillaroma car freshener.

Reminds me of: what did I just say?

The Bottom Line: Currently just $16.25 at ToniasTreasures, or perhaps even less at your local Maxx, this is a fun way to stink yourself up in the tropical aroma of a beachside cocktail. Longlasting (if you only knew) and inexpensive, the perfect summer gift for that person into Hula memorabilia or someone you truly despise.

Rating (out of 10): 3


Biotherm Eau Vitaminee Spray Refreshing Body Mist

Notes: citrus fruit, grapefruit, floral jasmine, freesia, white lily and white musk.

Pros: Inexpensively priced at your local Maxx; Vitamin E and citrus oil essences make skin soft and supple.

Cons: A bizarre misch-masch of notes that while fresh-smelling, certainly isn't terribly appealing.

Reminds me of: Didn't bring too much to mind, but then I wasn't really focused on associations while scrubbing my right wrist for the 4th time.

The Bottom Line: Also available at Nordies for a whopping $36, this "refreshing fragrance mist" may be perfect to take to the beach for a refreshing after-sun shpritz. Alternatively, cut a grapefruit in half and squeeze it all over your sun-tanned body.

Rating (out of 10): 4

WEBSITES and E-TAILERS: Material Clare

http://materialeclare.blogspot.com/

http://materialeclare.blogspot.com/

http://materialeclare.blogspot.com/

http://materialeclare.blogspot.com/

did I mention Materialclare?

REVIEW: Molinard, Vaniteck

Notes: Bitter orange, lemon, mastic tree, mint, vanilla, sage, cypress, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, heliotrope.

Pros: One of the most unusual vanilla fragrances I've yet to encounter; the lovechild of Chanel Antaeus & Benetton Colors.

Cons: There's an odd note reminiscent of late 70's men's colognes that rears its ancient head from time to time.

Reminds me of: Slightly reminiscent of de Nicolai's Vanille Tonka; Versace Black Jeans combined with Versace White Jeans.

Development: As the scent develops, the citrus calms and the earthier notes take over, finally drying down to vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver with a hint of patchouli.

Longevity: Applied at 9pm, I could still smell the vanilla lingering at 9am the next morning.

Sillage: I was definitely aware of my own fragrance throughout the evening...

Where can I buy it? $19.99 for a 3.4 oz edt spray at PerfumeBay.com

Bottleworthy? For that price? Hell, yes.

The Bottom Line: Another winner from Molinard, home to some of the least expensive and most intriguing fragrances. Vaniteck, though part of the Les Masculins range of fragrances, a group of vintage-inspired men's scents, could easily have been created today as a unisex fragrance. An unusual scent with three distinct characters - fresh citrus, green herbs, and warm earthy tones - about an hour into the wearing, the scent melts together and leaves behind a sweet, unusual blend of vanilla. For something similar, but without the vanilla notes, check out Teck by Molinard.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

What's your favorite vanilla-based scent?

*Bottle pictured is Rafale. Vaniteck is housed in the same bottle and box.

IMAGES: Havana pour Elle

Love the image, very Hollywood Glamour...but what about this scent? Released 10 years ago, I can't say that I've ever actually seen or smelled Havanna pour Elle....have you?

REVIEW: Trish McEvoy #11, White Iris

Notes: White iris, sandalwood, honeysuckle, jasmine, and Bulgarian roses.

Pros: Sumptuous but simple, with an almosty minty overtone.

Cons: Pricey and hard to find.

Reminds me of: L'Eau d'Hiver; Richard James for Men

Development: The fragrance waivers between layers of rich florals and an almost buttery sandalwood/iris pairing.

Longevity: Pretty good, lasted about 5 hours on my skin.

Sillage: Good projection, just right.

Where can I buy it? $38 for a 15ml edt spray at eLUXURY.com.

Bottleworthy? I can think of very few ways to better spend $38.

The Bottom Line: A mysterious scent with many facets, White Iris is a huge surprise from Trish McEvoy. I'm a loyal fan of Trish #9, and am happy to have discovered another of her exciting aromas. The star of this fragrance, to my nose, is the jasmine. Keeping a balance between the earthier basenotes and sweeter florals, the jasmine serves as an anchor and the effect is dazzling. Though I'd like the iris root to play a stronger role in the overall effect, the scent is especially interesting when compared with other iris fragrances such as the sweeter Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile. Somewhat rough around the edges, and somewhat green, Trish #11 almost achieves a sweet oriental quality and could easily be enjoyed by a man. A must-try for iris lovers.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your favorite Trish McEvoy scent?

REVIEW: Dior Dioressence

Notes: Rosebud, Violet, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli.

Pros: Whoa! Hot Damn this stuff rocks! A great use of spicey patchouli and cinnamon set against greener and softer geranium and violet.

Cons: Hey Dior, market this stuff a little would ya...

Reminds me of: Estee Lauder Cinnabar but much greener; Diptyque L'Eau

Development: Packs a lot of punch at the opening and then relaxes during the first hour.

Longevity: Excellent, lasted a good 8 hours on my skin.

Sillage: Ideal.

Where $34.90 at ImaginationPerfumery.com

Bottleworthy? For those who like the scents of the 60's and 70's and who aren't afraid of a little patchouli.

The Bottom Line: A straightforward masterpiece, this is arguably one of the least known of the current Dior crop of hidden secrets, though not necessarily the least popular. With a drydown of warm, sweet cinnamon, and opening notes of violet and geranium, this is one for the guys to consider (and hey, that packaging and bottle are pretty unisex). Straightforward and simple in its composition, this almost-chypre is evocative of another classic from a few years earlier - Opium. Overall, striking, and a new scent for fall. This is the scent of early autumn leaves and late summer blooms.

Rating (out of 10): 9

Decants available, email me!

What's you favorite designer sleeper?

RANT: Free Flacon during Fragrance Week at Saks

Join Saks for Fragrance Week, in stores through Saturday, May 6 and at Saks.com while supplies last.

With any fragrance purchase of $85 or more, you'll receive a complimentary vintage-inspired 5 ml. perfume flacon.* For online orders at Saks.com, just enter code: FRAGRANCE at checkout. One to a customer please, while supplies last.

You may qualify for FREE SHIPPING from Saks.com! Just place your order with the above promo code by Friday, May 5 at 1 pm (ET) and you'll automatically receive free shipping on purchases of $150 or more.

A percentage of sales from this event will benefit Women In Need, Inc., a non-profit organization that serves homeless and disadvantaged women and children.

INSIDE THE PYRAMID: Benzoin?

I see Benzoin listed quite often in some of my favorite fragrances, but what exactly is it? I think it's a resin from a tree that adds a sweet musky edge to fragrance. Let's Wikipedia it and find out how close I am...


Ok, Benzoin refers to Benzoin Resin, a fragrant secretion from the bark of a genus of trees referred to as styrax. Botanical.com adds that this secretion is not typical, but only occurs as a pathology when the tree is cut or stabbed at sufficient depths so as to cause the resinous weeping. The most common varieties are Siamese and Sumatran and the resin often has a sweet vanilla-like aroma. The resin was likely brought to Europe from Indonesia and is a key note used in Orthodox Christian and Russian church incense.

Commonly used as a basenote in combination with woods, musks and vanilla, some of my favorite fragrances containing Benzoin are:

• Balenciaga Cristobal pour Homme
• Chanel Coco
• Davidoff Relax
• Givenchy Pi
• L'Artisan Bois de Farine
• Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi
• Prada
• YSL Body Kouros
• Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon

What's your favorite benzoin-based scent?

FAVORITE BOTTLES: Kisu

KISU by Tann Rokka at Luckyscent.com

Decants available, email me!

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Chopard, Madness

Notes: Pink peppercorn, kumquat, lychee rose, red hibiscus, wild red rose. Wooded base, cotton flower and rosewood.

50ml edt spray: Retail price $70; $11.90 at Perfumebay.com

The Bottom Line: A rich oriental, peppery, woody and highlighted with subtle rose tinges. Well-blended and long-lasting, this one has surprised quite a few of my friends with its near-unisex aroma, groovy red bottle and amazing price tag. Don't let those notes fool you, this is not a pretty furity-floral! One of Chopard's least successful fragrances, partially because I think this would have worked better as a CDG or Lutens scent, Madness is on its way out...better get yourself a bottle today! And at that price - Wow!

Decants available, email me!

MUST-READS: Simplexity by Luca Turin

Click the image above to read Luca Turin's appraisals of Andy Tauer's L'Air du Desert Marocain and Bond #9's Chinatown.

Scenteur7 will donate $1 for every post...

Inspired by Scentzilla's charitable fundraising, Scenteur7 will donate $1 for every comment left on this blog between May 10th and May 15th to the Orphan Foundation of America. Help us raise money by agreeing to match the amount raised by Scenteur7, leaving comments, and/or offering random acts of scented charity.

MEN'S GROOMING: Dune pour Homme, Deodorant

Notes: Fig leaves, Basil leaves, Blackcurrant leaves, Sicilian mandarin, New hedione, Moss, Sage, Fig tree wood, Sandalwood, Atlas cedar wood, Tonka bean.

What is it? Deodorant and body spray scented with Christian Dior Dune pour Homme.

Why should I buy it? A surprisingly effective deodorant with the fresh, subtle aroma of Dune. This one is strong enough that it really helps project and lengthen the longevity of the eau de toilette.

Where can I buy it? $23.99 for a 5oz spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com

The Bottom Line: I generally never use scented deodorants, but as this one came with the edt in a swap, I decided to give it a try. Not only was it effective, but as mentioned above, I like the way it worked the edt. A little on the pricey side for a deodorant, I'm not sure it's necessary or bottleworthy, but if you're a die hard Dior or Dune fan, this is a must-have accessory.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your take on scented deodorants?

IMAGES: Encouragement

My dad is picky when it comes to fragrance, having worn Royal Copenhagen since its launch in the early 70's. So how do you get him to try something new? Oh no, merely buying it for him is not enough. I have to sneak into his bathroom, push all the other bottles to the back of the vanity, and "display" the scent I want him to try in plain sight...cap off...ready to go...

REVIEW: Eadward Fragrances, Belle

Notes: Mimosa, peach blossom, floral notes.

Pros: I fell in love with this at first sniff...somewhere between fabric softener freshness, and a Houbigant floral.

Cons: Linear, without much development.

Reminds me of: Houbigant Demi-Jour; Chloe.

Development: none

Longevity: Superb, lasted a good 6 hours on me.

Sillage: Also, superb! I was immediately asked what I was wearing and complimented after applying.

Where can I buy it? $28 for 2 oz spray at Beautycafe.com

Bottleworthy? If you ever loved Demi-Jour or Chloe, or are a fan of the fabric softener fad, this one's for you!

The Bottom Line: Another winner from our friends at Eadward. I'm enjoying this range immensely (see my review for Tranquil) and Belle was a true surprise. Having always loved the scent of peach blossom and tea roses in Houbigant's long forgotten Demi-Jour, imagine my shock when I first sniffed Belle - no, they aren't exactly the same, but the memories come flooding back. A sweet, fresh aroma with soft powdery floral undertones, this one never really treads into traditional floral territory, but hovers on the verge of a unisex "clean" scent.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

What newer scents are your replacements for long lost ones?

CONTEST: Make Me Laugh!

AND THE WINNER IS...

Tenzing Nosegay by Parfums d’Nepal by Lisa S.

Notes: ~ A faint waft of rotting mountain climber garbage threading through a bracing icy menthol accord touched with Himalayan pine that soon descends to a comforting center of wet wool and pure canister oxygen underlain with the homey fragrance of warm yak butter tea.

Pros: That Xtreme outdoor feeling. attracts many handsome sherpas and sherpettes.

Cons: Hypoxia

Reminds me of: Canali di Venezia, Eau de Nouvelle Jersey Saltmarsh, Valdez Millesime 1989

Development: strictly third world

Longevity: It just keeps returning and returning…eternally

Sillage: depending on the winds and temperature anywhere from overwhelming to silent.

Where can I buy it? $666 for a 500ml edp splash at Tenzing and Edmund’s Fragrance Yurt

Bottleworthy? If one must….

The Bottom Line: For the adventurous armchair tourist. Be there without being there. Wherever you go, there you are.

Rating (out of 10): 3.141818

LISA! Drop me a line with your mailing address to receive your gift!

______________________________________

APRIL CONTEST!

Write a Scenteur7 style review using the standard "notes, pros, cons, etc." format for the chance to win a fragrance.

What is it? A contest and a chance to win a fragrance!

What do I do? Choose any fragrance, real or fictional, of your choice and write an off-the-wall review of it using the standard Scenteur7 "10 criteria" and a rating (out of 10). Submit your review in the comments section of this thread. Have fun with it and worry not about offensive language! The goal here is to make me laugh, out loud, and heartily!

What's the time frame? Have your submission enetered into the comments section of this post by May 1st, 2006! Winners will be announced May 5th!

Good Luck!