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REVIEW: Storer Aromatics, Monk (2006)

Pros: An unusual aroma, light, airy, dry incense with only a hint of sweetness; great price tag.

Cons: It does remind me of an old cathedral which could actually be a "pro" for some.

Notes: Musk, civet, tabac, frankincense, leather, ambergris, sandalwood, tonka, galbanum, bergamot

Reminds me of: Etro Messe de Minuit; L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer

Development: I was surprised when the scent failed to develop much; with a list of notes as above, I expected unfolding layers. Instead the scent is well-blended and few single notes stand-out.

Longevity: The fragrance got very quiet on my skin after about 1 hour but I was surprised to get faint whiffs of Monk after about 3 hours. It lingered, albeit quietly.

Sillage: The fragrance is MUCH lighter than the notes might lead you to believe; creates a trail of light musk and fankincense.

Where can I buy it? $20.99 for a 100ml edt spray at Stores.Ebay.com.

Bottleworthy? At that price, this is an unusual scent that really must be tried.

The Bottom Line: After reading about Storer Aromatics' Monk at Basenotes.net, I knew that I would have to try it. I read descriptions like "smells like church incense" or "a great gothic aroma" and figured this was a scent that mimics Etro's infamous Messe de Minuit. In a very small way, it does, but the good news is that Monk is neither as harsh nor as expensive. My main problem with Monk is that it seems to be lacking that "it" factor that makes an ordinary or safe fragrance into one that just bowls you over. Monk didn't bowl me over but it did have me nodding my head "yes" and thinking of what kind of weather would have me wearing this. My answer: cool, rainy, grey days; days when I need a quiet and subtle aroma. Overall, Monk is an unusual fragrance from a new perfumer that deserves to be tried. Perfect for those who love light musk scents and church incense.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your favorite "Scent of a Cathedral"?

ASK MARLEN: Lutens, Le Labo and the Fragrance Fridge

Hi Marlen,

I love your blog and check it basically every day - it's one of the few sites I go to that actually update at least every day, so I'm always happy :)

I'm just starting to get into the very costly world of perfume addiction, so far I've only got about fifteen bottles of over-the-counter stuff, but I'm about to start branching out into niche stuff. I've fallen in love with Luten's Muscs Khublai Khan based just on the stuff I've read about it and NEED to have some. I've got a 5ml sample coming, but it's impossible to find online in any proper quantity. I understand that it's part of the "exclusive" non-export line, but surely there's got to be some site selling it that's not charging the ridiculously inflated prices you pay on Ebay? If you could steer me in the direction of such a site I'd be eternally grateful!

Also, I'm really intrigued by your review of vetiver46 (I LOVE vetiver fragrances.. went into two department stores the other day and asked the perfume lackeys what was a good, heavy vetiver scent and BOTH handed me hugo boss' selection hehe... yuck!), but also liked the sound of montale's vetiver... is Le Labo really worth the price difference??

One last question: on the very very off-chance that I manage to get a friend in Europe to get me some MKK, is there anything I need to watch out for in shipping? I'm in Australia and don't want my precious 100 euro perfume to get broken in transport, or heat-damaged or anything like that. I've heard that keeping good fragrances in a fridge is a much better way to store them
- is this true? ok, so that was two last questions, I'm all done now!

Thanks heaps,
JDear J,

Thanks so much for kudos. I love writing my blog, so I'm sure it will be around for some time!

Ok, onto your questions....I'm gonna make this short and simple:

1) The reason it's called the exclusive non-export line is that no one else sells it and it's not exported out of Europe for commercial sale. Best to contact Lutens directly: Salons-shiseido.com. The only time you see Lutens non-export items for sale is by private sellers who are re-selling their own items.

2) Le Labo is absolutely worth the price tag in my opinion, but only for someone who is a die hard fan of the fragrances they offer. Best to try the fragrances out.

Read my review of Le Labo Vetiver 46.
Check out Le Labo's website.

Montale's Vetiver is a horse of a different color and equally enjoyable to wear!

Read my review of Montale's Vetiver de Sables.
Check out SuraviOnline.com for great prices on Montale.
Check out Montale's website.

3) Shipping is always hit and miss, but its likely that if anything breaks on transit from your retailer, it will be replaced by the retailer...From a friend in Europe? Best to have the package insured just in case!

4) As for the urban legend of the Fragrance Fridge, well, it's true, there was a time I actually had a few fragrances in my fridge, and I have friends who have dedicated mini-fridges in their bath suites just for perfume. And it's true, like wine, fragrance lasts longer when stored in cool, dry, dark areas so if you've got the extra fridge space or the means to buy your own fragrance fridge, by all means go for it. While living in my Dad's house for the summer where you might find a block of cheese from 1968 still living in the fridge (yes, I am exaggerating, and wildly), I choose no to chill the Cerutti.

Ok, hope this helps, feel free to keep the questions coming!

Marlen

REVIEW: Montale, Jasmin Full (2005)

Pros: An incredible white floral that smells exactly like fresh jasmine petals.

Cons: This one is strictly for floral lovers.

Notes: Jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle.

Reminds me of: L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons, but headier.

Development: The honeysuckle and orange blossom are really only accents here, helping to create a sense of depth and adding a touch of sweetness; a linear composition.

Longevity: Lasts forever on me and that's a good thing from a jasmine fragrance.

Sillage: Again, excellent, enough so that I was asked what I was wearing, but not too overwhelming.

Where can I buy it? $122 for a 100ml edt spray at Suravionline.com.

Bottleworthy: A jasmine-lover's dream.

The Bottom Line: I've always loved the smell of jasmine, it's true. Having always preferred to drink my jasmine (tea) rather than wear it, I've long been somewhat shy about wearing white florals. That began to change after I discovered Hanae Mori for men in the mid-90's and became enchanted with its big brash jasmine note. More recently, after being surrounded by an oasis of jasmine (petals, flowers, teas, oils) at the Hotel de la Paix in Siem Reap, Cambodia, I officially became a jasmine junkie and Jasmin Full is the perfect scent for an addict such as myself. Yes, it's a little pricey, but the materials used are exquisite, the scent lasts forever, and it truly does smell like fresh-picked Jasmine petals. What more can I say?

Rating (out of 10): 8

What's your favorite jasmine scent?

ASK MARLEN: Les Amandes

Marlen,

Since we're on the topic of the Montales, (I've tried several of the oud line and liked them) and I think you're an almond and/or heliotrope fan, I was wondering if you've tried Amande Orientale. I'm intrigued but the MUA reviews seem to be all over the place on it.

Thanks,

T
Dear T,

Ya know, this one surprised me. I had been testing a number of the warmer oudh and musk fragrances and then stumbled upon a sample of Amandes Orientales. I was really surprised to discover a sweet powdery almond fragrance with standout notes of what smells like ylang and heliotrope. Its a softer scent that never grows too sweet or cloying, but beware the plastic doll-head note. Like a Barbie who hasn't bathed, Amandes Orientales also has a nasty side. Perhaps it is this note that keeps me from truly falling for it, though at the same time keeps me coming back out of cuirosity. I think I prefer the honeyed rose notes in Sweet Oriental Dream, another almond-inspired fragrance from Montale that is basically another version of Rahat Loukhoum, though neither as overwhelming as Mecheri nor as heavy as Lutens. I recommend trying both, but it's true T, there's a reason why the MUAer's are all over the place.

Hope this helps!
Marlen

Montale Sweet Oriental Dream may be purchased
online at a special price for Scenteur7 readers:
Suravionline.com.

REVIEW: Guerlain, L'Instant D'Un Ete Pour Homme (2006)

Pros: Lighter, fresher, version of the original; not as sweet; added citrus notes; stunning bottle.

Cons: Is this really different enough to warrant purchasing if I already own the original?

Notes: Green Citron, Badiane, Elemi, Neroli, Pepper Rose, Grapefruit, Patchouli, Exotic Woods, Cedar, Sandalwood, Lapsang Tea, Cacao, Hibiscus.

Reminds me of: Surprise, surprise, smells almost exactly like the original.

Development: I've now tried this on 3 occasions, wanting to make sure I gave this fragrance a real chance. It goes on well, but overall has a "washed out" effect that takes me from application straight to the basenotes, with the top and middle staying faint in the background. The base is a light, ambery, almost musky tea and woods aroma.


Longevity: Stays perceivable for about 2 or 3 hours before becoming nothing more than a hint.

Sillage: Minimal - my skin just soaks this stuff up...

Where can I buy it? CHF 68.90 for a 125 ml edt spray at Marionnaud.ch.

Bottleworthy? Save yourself the money and wear less of the original and you'll achieve nearly the same effect.

The Bottom Line: Reminding me of other summer orientals like Pi Fraiche, Guerlain has attempted to create a new scent by adding stronger citrus to the opening and toning everything else down. The effect is pleasant - L'Instant d'un Ete is certainly wearable, and there's no arguing that it does indeed smell great - but in terms of creating something new and unique, this summer version crosses no new territory, and afterall, it IS a summer variation...Try this one before your inner addict forces you to buy it - you'll likely agree that this lime-tinged version of the original is nice, but ultimately unnecessary.

Rating (out of 10): 6

What's your take on the Guerlain summer variations?

REVIEW: Tauer Perfumes, Lonestar Memories (2006)

Pros: An unusual leather composition, highlighted by an exquisite jasmine note and ambery-sweet basenotes.

Cons: None.

Notes: Geranium, carrot seed, clary sage, bichtar, cistus, jasmine, cedar wood, myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood.

Reminds me of: I know I've smelled something to this effect before, but I can't place it. Could it be that Mr. Tauer is developing a signature accord? Could what I detect as familiar actually be a reference to L'Air du Desert Marocain?

Development: Lonestar seems slightly more linear than I would have expected with very little about the composition changing over time.

Longevity: Excellent, 6-8 hours.

Sillage: Perfect.

Where can I buy it? Coming soon to TauerPerfumes.com.

Bottleworthy? If you're a lover of leather or richer wood fragrances, this is gonna be a holy grail scent and in that case, better get two bottles.

The Bottom Line: A scent with a wow factor, Lonestar Memories travels an unusual path for a leather-inspired scent. Opening with a fresh vegetal note (I imagine it's the carrot seed and sage) and then moving to a surprising middle bouquet of heady jasmine (one of the standout notes here), sweet birchtar, golden cedar and cistus (rockrose/labdanum) before revealing warm woods, sweet tonka, and earthy myrrh, Lonestar Memories reminds me of a late summer sunset - bands of orange and amber illuminating the sky with glistening stretches of golden clouds.

It's true, I'm a leather-lover and have my favorites - Knize Ten, Creed Royal English Leather, and Chanel Cuir de Russie being among my top three. What sets these fragrances apart from the rest is the range of notes in the composition that compliment the leather. In Knize, it's a buttery-rich blend of woods and musk; in REL, the leather is sweetened by the standard Creed base; and in Cuir de Russie, aldehydes and amber create the mood. With Lonestar Memories, the jasmine, tonka and myrrh create an unexpected depth and fullness that many other leather fragrances lack.

Lonestar Memories is a perfect addition to the current collection of fragrances that Mr. Tauer has created - as good as you'd hope, better than you could imagine, and an utter success. Now, if only we could do something about getting one of those cowboys pictured in the advertising to be included with the fragrance...

Rating (out of 10): 9

What makes a great leather scent for you?

ASK MARLEN: Takin it to the Maxx or the Marcus?

Hey Marlen,

I am considering applying for a job at TJ Maxx, and I'd like to know how your experience is working out. I can apply for several openings at my local store, including processor, merchandise retail, and cashier. I was hoping you could give me some advice as to what your position has been like, and what positions (if any) are better or worse to apply for.

Thank you!

J

Hi J,

I worked for the fragrance companies themselves at Nieman Marcus and Nordstrom, and then later actually for Nordstrom, a very different setting from TJ Maxx. There are definitely advantages to both - think of all the great discounts on fragrance as a Maxx employee vs all the free stuff you could get working in a larger dept store.

I'll elaborate a bit: Usually in a department store there are two types of salespeople - the ones who work for the dpeartment stores, "Sales Associates" (or SA's as we commonly refer to them); and then there are those folks who work for the fragrance companies and promote the fragrances in the stores, "Models". SA's usually work a schedule determined by the department store, make a lower hourly wage than models, but also have reliable work and, usually, benefits (medical, etc). Models' hours are generally more flexible (they create their own schedule), work can sometimes be sporadic (off-season or non-holiday times can be difficult if the fragrance companies decide they don't want to pay for models), and you might encounter some territorial SA's. I could go on...But I hope this gives you a basic idea of the types of fragrance positions you could look for in department stores. While SA's are employed directly through the department store, models are generally employed through the fragrance distributor - finding these jobs is no simple task...best to ask around the fragrance counters at your local dept stores!

Hope this helps!

Marlen

CONTEST: TDC WINNING COMPOSITION

And the winner is...

It was a close competition,
but only one could win:

Congratulations to Flora & her
“Une Rêve des Pivoines”
(A Dream of Peonies)

I see The Different Company as using very classic materials in new ways, and only using the best, as well as exploring new and unusual materials to expand the horizons of perfumery. This is my concept for a new fragrance:

“Une Rêve des Pivoines” (A Dream of Peonies)

This fragrance recreates the misty nostalgia of a romantic garden, and the scent evokes a happy childhood spent in the countryside. The rich yet sharp Peony intertwines with Rose, Freesia, spicy Nasturtium and a variety of fresh, green aromatic and balsamic accords that give a feeling of being out in an old-fashioned cottage garden on a fine early summer day, with a breeze coming in from the wild fields and woods beyond. Close your eyes and inhale deeply; it will transport you to a beautiful, tranquil place.

Notes: Paeonia lactiflora absolute from select heirloom cultivars, Rose de Mai absolute (Rosa centifolia) from Grasse, yellow Freesia absolute, Mock-orange (Philadelphus) extract, Nasturtium petals, Sweetclover (Melilotus) extract, Robinia flower extract, Comptonia peregrina leaves (sweet fern), Balm Poplar leaves, Oakmoss, Tolu balsam, Marsh tea resin (Ledum palustre), Paeonia leaf and root extract, Manaús rosewood.

Flora, please contact me at theperfumecritic at yahoo dot com
with your mailing address to claim your prize.

Just one question: Can you actually make this scent for me? Please? : )

ASK MARLEN: Kosui Bijutsukan

Dear Marlen,

Do you have any information on the Shizouka Perfume Museum in Japan? Are they online?

Thank you,

K
Dear K,

I'm surprised to hear about this - 4 years living in Japan and you think I would have known...and I've even been to Shizuoka:


There's not a website dedicated to the musem or at least not in English language searches, but I did find this:

Frommers.com
Shizuoka-guide.com

Not very helpful unless you are planning a visit, but it's a start.

Marlen

WIN A BOTTLE OF MPG ROUTE DU VETIVER

click the pic to find out how

ASK MARLEN: Eau de lung transplant

Hi there!

Love your pages. Could you please recommend a good heavy fragrance for a gay male smoker (40 cigs a day!)?

At present, I use:

Opium
M7
Oud
Arabian Amber
Mysore Sandalwood

Over the years, I have always found myself addicted to oriental notes. In particular, I love Arabian oil based 'attars' especially oud, amber, and black musk.

Thanks for your comments and good luck with the PhD.

Regards,

AshDear Ash,

40 cigs a day, huh? First let me recommend some Oxygene by Lanvin....

Ok, seriously...I'm so glad you asked this question during Montale Madness month because their Aouds and Attars are incomparable! First, go browse the Montale page at Suravionline.com, my favorite e-tailer for Montale who is offering specials to Scenteur7 readers for the month of June. In particular, I can recommend the following:

• Attar - Mysore sandalwood and Bulgarian roses.
• Oud Cuir d'Arabie - Leather, tobacco and smoked woods.
• Black Aoud - Red roses, Black Aoud and sandalwood.

Be sure to ask for samples if you're not totally sure. Suravi will allow you to put the cost of the samples (if any) towards your first purchase. I'm especially fond of the oudh fragrances because of the buttery saffron-like notes that usually accompany agarwood essences.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you'd like a few more suggestions!

Marlen

REVIEW: Art of Perfumery #5 (2006)

Name: Art of Perfumery #5

Pros: An incomparable floriental with rich overtones of white petals, bright citrus edges and a cushion of warm vanillic basenotes.

Cons: As far as the aroma goes - none; Extremely exclusive and hard to find, but take heart, samples are available!

Notes: Madagascan ylang, Chinese geranium, Italian mandarin, Argentinian lemon, Italian bergamot, clove, cardamom, vanilla, tonka, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, and sandalwood.

Reminds me of: I can't really think of anything! I get echoes of creamy white petals, Hawaiian Punch and L'Artisan Vanilia!


Development: At first sniff, I think I can detect gardenias....no wait, make that champaca....no, it's changed again, it's jasmine. Ylang makes an appearance and then fades as the citrus brightens the composition and adds a vibrant and youthful freshness to the composition before the top and middle give way to an extremely subtle and flawlessly blended base of sandalwood and tonka. Could that vanilla reference actually be Comores blossoms rather than vanilla pod?

The composeur writes:

When I was asked to participate in this project I decided that I wanted to work with the spirit of the original orientals. The idea was always to go deep into the odour area and not be afraid of it. Too many orientals today seem almost shy of themselves and, in my opinion lack any authenticity. But I didn’t just want to go down the retro route. I wanted all of that original power but I wanted to layer some modernity into the structure. The central theme is based around vanilla extracts, tonka beans, benzoin, myrrh, sandalwood and patchouli - these are the key elements of my oriental structure and give the fragrance its soul. I wanted to emphasise that exotic nature with a spice character and I used one of my favourite combinations of clove and cardamom to which I added just a trace of nutmeg. This gives a dry freshness to the theme which I “moistened” a little with Chinese geranium and ylang ylang from Madagascar. There is a lovely perfumery “trompe d’oeil” in the body of the perfume – a light touch of a beautiful aniseed, almost liquorice note which has been created purely through the interaction of the ingredients - there is absolutely no aniseed at all in the creation. For the top of the fragrance I’ve used a trio of essential oils - mandarin, lemon and bergamot - which give an incredible lift to the opening effect. Both the bergamot and the mandarin are Italian sourced but the lemon is an Argentinian oil which gave me the sharpness I was looking for. It’s a stunning start.

Longevity: Excellent, though the topnotes began to fade after an hour, the warmth of the basenotes really began to bloom.

Sillage: Better than average.

Where can I buy it? 75 Euros for a 50ml edp spray; 3 Euros for a 2ml sample spray at ArtofPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? Definitely try before you buy, as this isn't your typical oriental.

The Bottom Line: Juicy, soft, complex, rich, deep, velveteen, heady, textured....these are all adjectives that came to mind within the first few minutes of trying this exquisite new fragrance. Having never smelled this before and having not even read the list of notes, I sprayed this one on with absolutely zero preconceived notions, and boy, was I in luck. I love this stuff!

The notes are a little misleading, giving an impression of a scent that is richer, darker and sweeter than it actually is. Having never been a fan of the classic #5 (think double c's), this is a #5 to bathe in, take solace in, and relax in. Conjuring images of tropical orchards and gardens, their only boundaries a white sandy beach with rocky outcroppings on one side, and on the other, lush green hills, the sky is an electric blue and the only sound is the tumbling of the waves. Paradise.

Rating (out of 10): 8

Have you tried any of the fragrances from this line yet?

WEBSITES & E-TAILERS: Sniffing around in Sweden

Do you know this man?

click his pic to see his blog

A COMMENCED GROSS

A fragrance blog from Örebro, Sweden

READER FEEDBACK: Boning in Singapore

Dear Marlen,

I have to thank you for a good time. I was just reading your joyous "Overdosing with Singapore's darling" article and empathizing with your jubilant exploration and incredible discoveries. As you intended, this reader got swept up in the fray while monitoring your ever-quickening pulse--I saw the aisles, the boxes, I heard you inhaling, I felt your excitement. Your animated account seemed to come at me faster and faster as I read your enthused self-quote:

I go into my best “I’ve been a fragrance addict since I was a fetus” routine and stroke him with “your shop is unbelievable and I think I’ve died and gone to heaven. I’ve already met your wife. We boned..."

What? Whoa, wait a minute. I know he was darned happy, but ... Ohhhhh--"bonded."

Well, I had been feeling fairly jolly reading your story to this point, but this phrasing put me into hysteria. Three tissues later, I'm clear-eyed enough to see the monitor and tell you how much I enjoyed your overseas report. In fact, I don't think I'll ever forget it.

Cordially,

J

Thanks, J!

You got me scared for a moment, thinking "Oh Lord, did I really write that? How could no one else....oh," and then I saw that it was merely a trick of the eye. Thanks for the encouragement and praise, greatly appreciated by a novice writer such as myself...

Warmly,
Marlen
p.s. - should fetus be spelled with an "o"?

WEBSITES & E-TAILERS: 2 new fragrance blogs!

Congratulations to the following new blogs:

Made By Blog


Aromascope.com

Be sure to check out the review of Montale's Intense Tiare at Aromascope!

Wishing you all the best of luck,
Scenteur7

GAME: The War of the Roses

The War of the Roses4 fragrances have been sent to 6 people,
3 men and 3 women.
They will have until the end of June
to choose their favorites.
Each week they will vote one scent
off their list and tell us
their reasons for doing so.

In July, you, the reader can vote for
your favorite of their comments,
and the winning fragrance
will be revealed.

The writer of your favorite comment will win
a 10ml decant of their chosen rose fragrance.

The 4 fragrances will remain anonymous until then,
in this,
The War of the Roses.

ASK MARLEN: Wood and Spices and...?

Hi Marlen,

I have a question about one of the Montales, and I guess this could be a good time. I really love their Wood & Spices, but it drives both me and my partner crazy when we can't figure out what it reminds us of. Have you noticed a close resemblance to something else (not sure it is even a fragrance)?

Thanks,

SHi S,

I love Wood & Spices and don't worry, you're not alone, I believe a Basenotes concensus revealed a reference to Chanel Allure for Men. Likewise, Wood & Spices also reminds me of Sculpture Homme by Nikos. Let's look at some compositions, shall we?

Montale Wood & Spices (2004)
Notes: Ebony, sandalwood, vetiver, incense notes from Caradamone and spices.

Chanel Allure pour Homme (1998)

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Citron Zest, Jamaican Pepper, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Labdanum.

Nikos Sculpture Homme (1995)

Notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Coriander, Cedar, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Ambrette seed.

Main differences that I experience among these three are that Allure tends to have more citrus in the top and a smoother drydown; Sculpture is slightly more floral; and Woods & Spices has a much richer base that is slightly more complex.

Hope this helps!

Marlen

Montale Wood & Spices may be purchased at SuraviOnline.com at a special price just for Scenteur7 readers!

MULTIMEDIA: Instructions, please.

from Youtube.com

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Guerlain, Les Meteorites (2000)

Notes: Violet, Iris, Heliotrope, Rose.

1 oz EDT spray: Retail $38; Parfum1.com $14.95.

The Bottom Line: One of Guerlain's lesser-known creations, Meteorites pays homage to soft florals with this violet-themed aroma that seems to have been discontinued. Often compared to Guerlain's Apres L'Ondee, this is the perfect scent for the approaching summer if looking for an unusual and little-known light floral. A simple composition, an adorable bottle, a low price tag, and one of the rarer Guerlains, how could you go wrong?