Sunday, February 26, 2006

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT: Trussardi

About the house: From DesignerHistory.com (thanks, Justin!)

In 1910, Dante Trussardi, master glove-maker, set up his company in Bergamo, Italy, creating finely made gloves which were soon sold all over the world.

Nicola, Dante Trussardi's nephew was born in Bergamo in 1942. He studied at the Universita Cattolica in Milan, graduating with a degree in Economics and Business Science. He married Maria Luisa Gavazzeni. They had two sons and two daughters, Beatrice, Francesco, Gaia and Tommaso.

In 1970, Nicola Trussardi, took over the company after the sudden death of his father and brother. Taking full advantage of the company's experience with leather work, he decided to diversity the company's products. He bought a tannery and with the help of experts studied new procedures for treating and refining leather to make sophisticated products.

In 1973 Trussardi launched his label for bags, suitcases and small leather goods. He used as his logo, the greyhound dog, fast and delicate, which has always been tied to the history of painting. The immediate success of the first leather collection encouraged him to add more products to the line, such as belts, shoes, umbrellas and ties.

In 1976, the first Trussardi shop was opened in Milan selling leather jackets and other leather goods. Today the network of shops in Italy and abroad includes 183 boutiques.

In 1983, Trussardi presented the first womens ready-to-wear collection during the twice yearly Milano Ciolezioni shows. He chose as a setting, the romantic ambience of La Scala Opera House in Milan. He followed this a year later with his first Menswear collection shown at the Modern Art Pavilion in Milan.

The Trussardi look is classic, but innovative, with generous use of the finest fabrics.

In both 1985 and 1986 Trussardi was awarded the Iminagena Italia award.

In 1987 Trussardi designed the leasure garments for the Italian athletes taking part in the 1988 Olympic Games.

Throughout the 1980's, the menswear and womenswear collections were very successful, and the company was doing very well.

However, sadly, on April 3rd, 1999, Nicola Trussardi died. He crashed his car on the way home, went into a coma and did not recover. He was only 56 years of age. His daughter Beatrice and son Francesco carried on the house.

French designer Nicolas Ghesquiere took over the design helm for 2 collections in 1997, followed by Jeremy Scott, a Paris-based American, who joined in 1997 and designs Trussardi Jeans, Trussardi T-Store and Trussardi Sportswear.

The Nicola Trussaudi Foundation has been set up to host exhibitions and cultural events in keeping with Nicola's love of art and culture.


Fragrance Collection (links to Perfumeworld.net):
My Favorite: By far, Trussardi Skin. An intriguing unisex scent with notes of violet leaves, apple, pink pepper, citrus, lily-of-the-valley, rose, jasmine, rosewood, cedar, patchouli, moss.

The Bottom Line: Though I'm not a fan of the men's scents (generally heavy, with dark leather tones and anise), and am unfamiliar with most of the women's scents, I was a fan of Trussardi Action for Women in the late 80's and love Skin. The recent Jeans duo is interesting with the men's scent highlighted by a lychee note, and the women's smelling like barley. Though the men's version of Python was one more variation on marine/aquatic, the women's scents was quite striking with notes of Bergamot, Mandarin, Plum, Chocolate, Rose, Jasmine, Cardamom, Nutneg, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Vanilla. Though not my favorite house, Trussardi has some striking compositions and a line of luggage and ties that would make just about any dandy swoon!

Tell us about your favorite Trussardi!

5 comments:

Justin said...

Thanks for this whole section about Trussardi. Though you really didnt have to mention me. Even so I guess I could say I now have a taste of fame being on the famous scenteur7 blog ^_^.

Hope your move comming up goes well and I must advise against trying all of your new frags in a 24 hour period when you get back to your dads lol.

marlen said...

justin - my pleasure, and thank YOU for spurring me on and for the great advice about designerhistory.com. Keep on posting!

Rue said...

Trussardi Donna (1984) is what I wore in the 80's second only to Parfum Rare by Jacomo and third was Diva by Ungaro. I also wore pointed toe four inch stilettos every day even though I worked in clothing retail and I smoked Dunhill cigarettes, often with a twelve inch cigarette holder. That was several lifetimes ago. I can't wear any of those anymore since they are dated in my mind and conjure a time and place I really do not care to relive.

"I never look back darling, it distracts from the now." Edna Mode, The Incredibles :)

marlen said...

Rue - 12 inch cigarette holder? u, my dear, are officially the blog size-queen!

shifts said...

I think I've missed this review. I'm right now trying to write a piece about Trussardi Skin for my own blog actually. I hardly ever see it mentioned anywhere, which is a shame. It's creamy appearance speaks to me and it's careful way of showing it's flowery part is really nice. I find the blending is great, can hardly pick the notes apart from each other. Well I can, but they don't feel like separate notes really, but sing like one big chord.