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2006-06-14T10:09:00.001-04:00

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REVIEW: Storer Aromatics, Monk (2006)

2006-06-14T08:57:00.000-04:00

Pros: An unusual aroma, light, airy, dry incense with only a hint of sweetness; great price tag.

Cons: It does remind me of an old cathedral which could actually be a "pro" for some.

Notes: Musk, civet, tabac, frankincense, leather, ambergris, sandalwood, tonka, galbanum, bergamot

Reminds me of: Etro Messe de Minuit; L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer

Development: I was surprised when the scent failed to develop much; with a list of notes as above, I expected unfolding layers. Instead the scent is well-blended and few single notes stand-out.

Longevity: The fragrance got very quiet on my skin after about 1 hour but I was surprised to get faint whiffs of Monk after about 3 hours. It lingered, albeit quietly.

Sillage: The fragrance is MUCH lighter than the notes might lead you to believe; creates a trail of light musk and fankincense.

Where can I buy it? $20.99 for a 100ml edt spray at Stores.Ebay.com.

Bottleworthy? At that price, this is an unusual scent that really must be tried.

The Bottom Line: After reading about Storer Aromatics' Monk at Basenotes.net, I knew that I would have to try it. I read descriptions like "smells like church incense" or "a great gothic aroma" and figured this was a scent that mimics Etro's infamous Messe de Minuit. In a very small way, it does, but the good news is that Monk is neither as harsh nor as expensive. My main problem with Monk is that it seems to be lacking that "it" factor that makes an ordinary or safe fragrance into one that just bowls you over. Monk didn't bowl me over but it did have me nodding my head "yes" and thinking of what kind of weather would have me wearing this. My answer: cool, rainy, grey days; days when I need a quiet and subtle aroma. Overall, Monk is an unusual fragrance from a new perfumer that deserves to be tried. Perfect for those who love light musk scents and church incense.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your favorite "Scent of a Cathedral"?

ASK MARLEN: Lutens, Le Labo and the Fragrance Fridge

2006-06-14T08:10:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

I love your blog and check it basically every day - it's one of the few sites I go to that actually update at least every day, so I'm always happy :)

I'm just starting to get into the very costly world of perfume addiction, so far I've only got about fifteen bottles of over-the-counter stuff, but I'm about to start branching out into niche stuff. I've fallen in love with Luten's Muscs Khublai Khan based just on the stuff I've read about it and NEED to have some. I've got a 5ml sample coming, but it's impossible to find online in any proper quantity. I understand that it's part of the "exclusive" non-export line, but surely there's got to be some site selling it that's not charging the ridiculously inflated prices you pay on Ebay? If you could steer me in the direction of such a site I'd be eternally grateful!

Also, I'm really intrigued by your review of vetiver46 (I LOVE vetiver fragrances.. went into two department stores the other day and asked the perfume lackeys what was a good, heavy vetiver scent and BOTH handed me hugo boss' selection hehe... yuck!), but also liked the sound of montale's vetiver... is Le Labo really worth the price difference??

One last question: on the very very off-chance that I manage to get a friend in Europe to get me some MKK, is there anything I need to watch out for in shipping? I'm in Australia and don't want my precious 100 euro perfume to get broken in transport, or heat-damaged or anything like that. I've heard that keeping good fragrances in a fridge is a much better way to store them
- is this true? ok, so that was two last questions, I'm all done now!

Thanks heaps,
JDear J,

Thanks so much for kudos. I love writing my blog, so I'm sure it will be around for some time!

Ok, onto your questions....I'm gonna make this short and simple:

1) The reason it's called the exclusive non-export line is that no one else sells it and it's not exported out of Europe for commercial sale. Best to contact Lutens directly: Salons-shiseido.com. The only time you see Lutens non-export items for sale is by private sellers who are re-selling their own items.

2) Le Labo is absolutely worth the price tag in my opinion, but only for someone who is a die hard fan of the fragrances they offer. Best to try the fragrances out.

Read my review of Le Labo Vetiver 46.
Check out Le Labo's website.

Montale's Vetiver is a horse of a different color and equally enjoyable to wear!

Read my review of Montale's Vetiver de Sables.
Check out SuraviOnline.com for great prices on Montale.
Check out Montale's website.

3) Shipping is always hit and miss, but its likely that if anything breaks on transit from your retailer, it will be replaced by the retailer...From a friend in Europe? Best to have the package insured just in case!

4) As for the urban legend of the Fragrance Fridge, well, it's true, there was a time I actually had a few fragrances in my fridge, and I have friends who have dedicated mini-fridges in their bath suites just for perfume. And it's true, like wine, fragrance lasts longer when stored in cool, dry, dark areas so if you've got the extra fridge space or the means to buy your own fragrance fridge, by all means go for it. While living in my Dad's house for the summer where you might find a block of cheese from 1968 still living in the fridge (yes, I am exaggerating, and wildly), I choose no to chill the Cerutti.

Ok, hope this helps, feel free to keep the questions coming!

Marlen

REVIEW: Montale, Jasmin Full (2005)

2006-06-13T10:28:00.000-04:00

Pros: An incredible white floral that smells exactly like fresh jasmine petals.

Cons: This one is strictly for floral lovers.

Notes: Jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle.

Reminds me of: L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons, but headier.

Development: The honeysuckle and orange blossom are really only accents here, helping to create a sense of depth and adding a touch of sweetness; a linear composition.

Longevity: Lasts forever on me and that's a good thing from a jasmine fragrance.

Sillage: Again, excellent, enough so that I was asked what I was wearing, but not too overwhelming.

Where can I buy it? $122 for a 100ml edt spray at Suravionline.com.

Bottleworthy: A jasmine-lover's dream.

The Bottom Line: I've always loved the smell of jasmine, it's true. Having always preferred to drink my jasmine (tea) rather than wear it, I've long been somewhat shy about wearing white florals. That began to change after I discovered Hanae Mori for men in the mid-90's and became enchanted with its big brash jasmine note. More recently, after being surrounded by an oasis of jasmine (petals, flowers, teas, oils) at the Hotel de la Paix in Siem Reap, Cambodia, I officially became a jasmine junkie and Jasmin Full is the perfect scent for an addict such as myself. Yes, it's a little pricey, but the materials used are exquisite, the scent lasts forever, and it truly does smell like fresh-picked Jasmine petals. What more can I say?

Rating (out of 10): 8

What's your favorite jasmine scent?

ASK MARLEN: Les Amandes

2006-06-11T10:47:00.000-04:00

Marlen,

Since we're on the topic of the Montales, (I've tried several of the oud line and liked them) and I think you're an almond and/or heliotrope fan, I was wondering if you've tried Amande Orientale. I'm intrigued but the MUA reviews seem to be all over the place on it.

Thanks,

T
Dear T,

Ya know, this one surprised me. I had been testing a number of the warmer oudh and musk fragrances and then stumbled upon a sample of Amandes Orientales. I was really surprised to discover a sweet powdery almond fragrance with standout notes of what smells like ylang and heliotrope. Its a softer scent that never grows too sweet or cloying, but beware the plastic doll-head note. Like a Barbie who hasn't bathed, Amandes Orientales also has a nasty side. Perhaps it is this note that keeps me from truly falling for it, though at the same time keeps me coming back out of cuirosity. I think I prefer the honeyed rose notes in Sweet Oriental Dream, another almond-inspired fragrance from Montale that is basically another version of Rahat Loukhoum, though neither as overwhelming as Mecheri nor as heavy as Lutens. I recommend trying both, but it's true T, there's a reason why the MUAer's are all over the place.

Hope this helps!
Marlen

Montale Sweet Oriental Dream may be purchased
online at a special price for Scenteur7 readers:
Suravionline.com.

REVIEW: Guerlain, L'Instant D'Un Ete Pour Homme (2006)

2006-06-11T10:45:00.000-04:00

Pros: Lighter, fresher, version of the original; not as sweet; added citrus notes; stunning bottle.

Cons: Is this really different enough to warrant purchasing if I already own the original?

Notes: Green Citron, Badiane, Elemi, Neroli, Pepper Rose, Grapefruit, Patchouli, Exotic Woods, Cedar, Sandalwood, Lapsang Tea, Cacao, Hibiscus.

Reminds me of: Surprise, surprise, smells almost exactly like the original.

Development: I've now tried this on 3 occasions, wanting to make sure I gave this fragrance a real chance. It goes on well, but overall has a "washed out" effect that takes me from application straight to the basenotes, with the top and middle staying faint in the background. The base is a light, ambery, almost musky tea and woods aroma.

Longevity: Stays perceivable for about 2 or 3 hours before becoming nothing more than a hint.

Sillage: Minimal - my skin just soaks this stuff up...

Where can I buy it? CHF 68.90 for a 125 ml edt spray at Marionnaud.ch.

Bottleworthy? Save yourself the money and wear less of the original and you'll achieve nearly the same effect.

The Bottom Line: Reminding me of other summer orientals like Pi Fraiche, Guerlain has attempted to create a new scent by adding stronger citrus to the opening and toning everything else down. The effect is pleasant - L'Instant d'un Ete is certainly wearable, and there's no arguing that it does indeed smell great - but in terms of creating something new and unique, this summer version crosses no new territory, and afterall, it IS a summer variation...Try this one before your inner addict forces you to buy it - you'll likely agree that this lime-tinged version of the original is nice, but ultimately unnecessary.

Rating (out of 10): 6

What's your take on the Guerlain summer variations?

REVIEW: Tauer Perfumes, Lonestar Memories (2006)

2006-06-10T12:51:00.000-04:00

Pros: An unusual leather composition, highlighted by an exquisite jasmine note and ambery-sweet basenotes.

Cons: None.

Notes: Geranium, carrot seed, clary sage, bichtar, cistus, jasmine, cedar wood, myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood.

Reminds me of: I know I've smelled something to this effect before, but I can't place it. Could it be that Mr. Tauer is developing a signature accord? Could what I detect as familiar actually be a reference to L'Air du Desert Marocain?

Development: Lonestar seems slightly more linear than I would have expected with very little about the composition changing over time.

Longevity: Excellent, 6-8 hours.

Sillage: Perfect.

Where can I buy it? Coming soon to TauerPerfumes.com.

Bottleworthy? If you're a lover of leather or richer wood fragrances, this is gonna be a holy grail scent and in that case, better get two bottles.

The Bottom Line: A scent with a wow factor, Lonestar Memories travels an unusual path for a leather-inspired scent. Opening with a fresh vegetal note (I imagine it's the carrot seed and sage) and then moving to a surprising middle bouquet of heady jasmine (one of the standout notes here), sweet birchtar, golden cedar and cistus (rockrose/labdanum) before revealing warm woods, sweet tonka, and earthy myrrh, Lonestar Memories reminds me of a late summer sunset - bands of orange and amber illuminating the sky with glistening stretches of golden clouds.

It's true, I'm a leather-lover and have my favorites - Knize Ten, Creed Royal English Leather, and Chanel Cuir de Russie being among my top three. What sets these fragrances apart from the rest is the range of notes in the composition that compliment the leather. In Knize, it's a buttery-rich blend of woods and musk; in REL, the leather is sweetened by the standard Creed base; and in Cuir de Russie, aldehydes and amber create the mood. With Lonestar Memories, the jasmine, tonka and myrrh create an unexpected depth and fullness that many other leather fragrances lack.

Lonestar Memories is a perfect addition to the current collection of fragrances that Mr. Tauer has created - as good as you'd hope, better than you could imagine, and an utter success. Now, if only we could do something about getting one of those cowboys pictured in the advertising to be included with the fragrance...

Rating (out of 10): 9

What makes a great leather scent for you?

ASK MARLEN: Takin it to the Maxx or the Marcus?

2006-06-10T10:39:00.000-04:00

Hey Marlen,

I am considering applying for a job at TJ Maxx, and I'd like to know how your experience is working out. I can apply for several openings at my local store, including processor, merchandise retail, and cashier. I was hoping you could give me some advice as to what your position has been like, and what positions (if any) are better or worse to apply for.

Thank you!

Hi J,

I worked for the fragrance companies themselves at Nieman Marcus and Nordstrom, and then later actually for Nordstrom, a very different setting from TJ Maxx. There are definitely advantages to both - think of all the great discounts on fragrance as a Maxx employee vs all the free stuff you could get working in a larger dept store.

I'll elaborate a bit: Usually in a department store there are two types of salespeople - the ones who work for the dpeartment stores, "Sales Associates" (or SA's as we commonly refer to them); and then there are those folks who work for the fragrance companies and promote the fragrances in the stores, "Models". SA's usually work a schedule determined by the department store, make a lower hourly wage than models, but also have reliable work and, usually, benefits (medical, etc). Models' hours are generally more flexible (they create their own schedule), work can sometimes be sporadic (off-season or non-holiday times can be difficult if the fragrance companies decide they don't want to pay for models), and you might encounter some territorial SA's. I could go on...But I hope this gives you a basic idea of the types of fragrance positions you could look for in department stores. While SA's are employed directly through the department store, models are generally employed through the fragrance distributor - finding these jobs is no simple task...best to ask around the fragrance counters at your local dept stores!

Hope this helps!

Marlen

CONTEST: TDC WINNING COMPOSITION

2006-06-09T18:29:00.000-04:00

And the winner is...

It was a close competition,
but only one could win:

Congratulations to Flora & her
“Une Rêve des Pivoines”
(A Dream of Peonies)

I see The Different Company as using very classic materials in new ways, and only using the best, as well as exploring new and unusual materials to expand the horizons of perfumery. This is my concept for a new fragrance:

“Une Rêve des Pivoines” (A Dream of Peonies)

This fragrance recreates the misty nostalgia of a romantic garden, and the scent evokes a happy childhood spent in the countryside. The rich yet sharp Peony intertwines with Rose, Freesia, spicy Nasturtium and a variety of fresh, green aromatic and balsamic accords that give a feeling of being out in an old-fashioned cottage garden on a fine early summer day, with a breeze coming in from the wild fields and woods beyond. Close your eyes and inhale deeply; it will transport you to a beautiful, tranquil place.

Notes: Paeonia lactiflora absolute from select heirloom cultivars, Rose de Mai absolute (Rosa centifolia) from Grasse, yellow Freesia absolute, Mock-orange (Philadelphus) extract, Nasturtium petals, Sweetclover (Melilotus) extract, Robinia flower extract, Comptonia peregrina leaves (sweet fern), Balm Poplar leaves, Oakmoss, Tolu balsam, Marsh tea resin (Ledum palustre), Paeonia leaf and root extract, Manaús rosewood.

Flora, please contact me at theperfumecritic at yahoo dot com
with your mailing address to claim your prize.

Just one question: Can you actually make this scent for me? Please? : )

ASK MARLEN: Kosui Bijutsukan

2006-06-09T13:07:00.000-04:00

Dear Marlen,

Do you have any information on the Shizouka Perfume Museum in Japan? Are they online?

Thank you,

K
Dear K,

I'm surprised to hear about this - 4 years living in Japan and you think I would have known...and I've even been to Shizuoka:

There's not a website dedicated to the musem or at least not in English language searches, but I did find this:

Frommers.com
Shizuoka-guide.com

Not very helpful unless you are planning a visit, but it's a start.

Marlen

WIN A BOTTLE OF MPG ROUTE DU VETIVER

2006-06-08T15:19:00.000-04:00

click the pic to find out how

ASK MARLEN: Eau de lung transplant

2006-06-08T10:09:00.000-04:00

Hi there!

Love your pages. Could you please recommend a good heavy fragrance for a gay male smoker (40 cigs a day!)?

At present, I use:

Opium
M7
Oud
Arabian Amber
Mysore Sandalwood

Over the years, I have always found myself addicted to oriental notes. In particular, I love Arabian oil based 'attars' especially oud, amber, and black musk.

Thanks for your comments and good luck with the PhD.

Regards,

AshDear Ash,

40 cigs a day, huh? First let me recommend some Oxygene by Lanvin....

Ok, seriously...I'm so glad you asked this question during Montale Madness month because their Aouds and Attars are incomparable! First, go browse the Montale page at Suravionline.com, my favorite e-tailer for Montale who is offering specials to Scenteur7 readers for the month of June. In particular, I can recommend the following:

Attar - Mysore sandalwood and Bulgarian roses.
Oud Cuir d'Arabie - Leather, tobacco and smoked woods.
Black Aoud - Red roses, Black Aoud and sandalwood.

Be sure to ask for samples if you're not totally sure. Suravi will allow you to put the cost of the samples (if any) towards your first purchase. I'm especially fond of the oudh fragrances because of the buttery saffron-like notes that usually accompany agarwood essences.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you'd like a few more suggestions!

Marlen

REVIEW: Art of Perfumery #5 (2006)

2006-06-08T08:35:00.000-04:00

Name: Art of Perfumery #5

Pros: An incomparable floriental with rich overtones of white petals, bright citrus edges and a cushion of warm vanillic basenotes.

Cons: As far as the aroma goes - none; Extremely exclusive and hard to find, but take heart, samples are available!

Notes: Madagascan ylang, Chinese geranium, Italian mandarin, Argentinian lemon, Italian bergamot, clove, cardamom, vanilla, tonka, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, and sandalwood.

Reminds me of: I can't really think of anything! I get echoes of creamy white petals, Hawaiian Punch and L'Artisan Vanilia!

Development: At first sniff, I think I can detect gardenias....no wait, make that champaca....no, it's changed again, it's jasmine. Ylang makes an appearance and then fades as the citrus brightens the composition and adds a vibrant and youthful freshness to the composition before the top and middle give way to an extremely subtle and flawlessly blended base of sandalwood and tonka. Could that vanilla reference actually be Comores blossoms rather than vanilla pod?

The composeur writes:

When I was asked to participate in this project I decided that I wanted to work with the spirit of the original orientals. The idea was always to go deep into the odour area and not be afraid of it. Too many orientals today seem almost shy of themselves and, in my opinion lack any authenticity. But I didn’t just want to go down the retro route. I wanted all of that original power but I wanted to layer some modernity into the structure. The central theme is based around vanilla extracts, tonka beans, benzoin, myrrh, sandalwood and patchouli - these are the key elements of my oriental structure and give the fragrance its soul. I wanted to emphasise that exotic nature with a spice character and I used one of my favourite combinations of clove and cardamom to which I added just a trace of nutmeg. This gives a dry freshness to the theme which I “moistened” a little with Chinese geranium and ylang ylang from Madagascar. There is a lovely perfumery “trompe d’oeil” in the body of the perfume – a light touch of a beautiful aniseed, almost liquorice note which has been created purely through the interaction of the ingredients - there is absolutely no aniseed at all in the creation. For the top of the fragrance I’ve used a trio of essential oils - mandarin, lemon and bergamot - which give an incredible lift to the opening effect. Both the bergamot and the mandarin are Italian sourced but the lemon is an Argentinian oil which gave me the sharpness I was looking for. It’s a stunning start.

Longevity: Excellent, though the topnotes began to fade after an hour, the warmth of the basenotes really began to bloom.

Sillage: Better than average.

Where can I buy it? 75 Euros for a 50ml edp spray; 3 Euros for a 2ml sample spray at ArtofPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? Definitely try before you buy, as this isn't your typical oriental.

The Bottom Line: Juicy, soft, complex, rich, deep, velveteen, heady, textured....these are all adjectives that came to mind within the first few minutes of trying this exquisite new fragrance. Having never smelled this before and having not even read the list of notes, I sprayed this one on with absolutely zero preconceived notions, and boy, was I in luck. I love this stuff!

The notes are a little misleading, giving an impression of a scent that is richer, darker and sweeter than it actually is. Having never been a fan of the classic #5 (think double c's), this is a #5 to bathe in, take solace in, and relax in. Conjuring images of tropical orchards and gardens, their only boundaries a white sandy beach with rocky outcroppings on one side, and on the other, lush green hills, the sky is an electric blue and the only sound is the tumbling of the waves. Paradise.

Rating (out of 10): 8

Have you tried any of the fragrances from this line yet?

WEBSITES & E-TAILERS: Sniffing around in Sweden

2006-06-08T08:15:00.000-04:00

Do you know this man?

click his pic to see his blog

A COMMENCED GROSS

A fragrance blog from Örebro, Sweden

READER FEEDBACK: Boning in Singapore

2006-06-07T12:42:00.000-04:00

Dear Marlen,

I have to thank you for a good time. I was just reading your joyous "Overdosing with Singapore's darling" article and empathizing with your jubilant exploration and incredible discoveries. As you intended, this reader got swept up in the fray while monitoring your ever-quickening pulse--I saw the aisles, the boxes, I heard you inhaling, I felt your excitement. Your animated account seemed to come at me faster and faster as I read your enthused self-quote:

I go into my best “I’ve been a fragrance addict since I was a fetus” routine and stroke him with “your shop is unbelievable and I think I’ve died and gone to heaven. I’ve already met your wife. We boned..."

What? Whoa, wait a minute. I know he was darned happy, but ... Ohhhhh--"bonded."

Well, I had been feeling fairly jolly reading your story to this point, but this phrasing put me into hysteria. Three tissues later, I'm clear-eyed enough to see the monitor and tell you how much I enjoyed your overseas report. In fact, I don't think I'll ever forget it.

Cordially,

J

Thanks, J!

You got me scared for a moment, thinking "Oh Lord, did I really write that? How could no one else....oh," and then I saw that it was merely a trick of the eye. Thanks for the encouragement and praise, greatly appreciated by a novice writer such as myself...

Warmly,
Marlen
p.s. - should fetus be spelled with an "o"?

WEBSITES & E-TAILERS: 2 new fragrance blogs!

2006-06-07T11:52:00.000-04:00

Congratulations to the following new blogs:

Made By Blog

Aromascope.com

Be sure to check out the review of Montale's Intense Tiare at Aromascope!

Wishing you all the best of luck,
Scenteur7

GAME: The War of the Roses

2006-06-07T10:24:00.000-04:00

The War of the Roses4 fragrances have been sent to 6 people,
3 men and 3 women.
They will have until the end of June
to choose their favorites.
Each week they will vote one scent
off their list and tell us
their reasons for doing so.

In July, you, the reader can vote for
your favorite of their comments,
and the winning fragrance
will be revealed.

The writer of your favorite comment will win
a 10ml decant of their chosen rose fragrance.

The 4 fragrances will remain anonymous until then,
in this,
The War of the Roses.

ASK MARLEN: Wood and Spices and...?

2006-06-07T08:27:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

I have a question about one of the Montales, and I guess this could be a good time. I really love their Wood & Spices, but it drives both me and my partner crazy when we can't figure out what it reminds us of. Have you noticed a close resemblance to something else (not sure it is even a fragrance)?

Thanks,

SHi S,

I love Wood & Spices and don't worry, you're not alone, I believe a Basenotes concensus revealed a reference to Chanel Allure for Men. Likewise, Wood & Spices also reminds me of Sculpture Homme by Nikos. Let's look at some compositions, shall we?

Montale Wood & Spices (2004)
Notes: Ebony, sandalwood, vetiver, incense notes from Caradamone and spices.

Chanel Allure pour Homme (1998)

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Citron Zest, Jamaican Pepper, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Labdanum.

Nikos Sculpture Homme (1995)

Notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Coriander, Cedar, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Ambrette seed.

Main differences that I experience among these three are that Allure tends to have more citrus in the top and a smoother drydown; Sculpture is slightly more floral; and Woods & Spices has a much richer base that is slightly more complex.

Hope this helps!

Marlen

Montale Wood & Spices may be purchased at SuraviOnline.com at a special price just for Scenteur7 readers!

MULTIMEDIA: Instructions, please.

2006-06-06T12:52:00.000-04:00

from Youtube.com

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Guerlain, Les Meteorites (2000)

2006-06-06T10:11:00.000-04:00

Notes: Violet, Iris, Heliotrope, Rose.

1 oz EDT spray: Retail $38; Parfum1.com $14.95.

The Bottom Line: One of Guerlain's lesser-known creations, Meteorites pays homage to soft florals with this violet-themed aroma that seems to have been discontinued. Often compared to Guerlain's Apres L'Ondee, this is the perfect scent for the approaching summer if looking for an unusual and little-known light floral. A simple composition, an adorable bottle, a low price tag, and one of the rarer Guerlains, how could you go wrong?

REVIEW: Sonoma Scent Studio, Fireside (Special Edition)

2006-06-06T08:59:00.000-04:00

Notes: Sandalwood, guaiacwood, woodsmoke, Atlas cedar, and a touch of frankincense and myrrh.

Pros: Striking and simple composition that makes a great vehicle for the star of this show - sandalwood (and a beautiful sandalwood it is!)

Cons: Neither as smokey nor as dark as I would like. But then again, this is a good alternative for those who are put off by Diptyque's even darker Galliano.

Reminds me of: LaCroix Tumulte pour Homme; Diptyque Tam Dao; Indian Sandalwood oil.

Development: A very linear composition that showcases the nuances of the sandalwood essence used.

Longevity: Considering that the composition is an EDP, I had hoped for greater longevity.

Sillage: This one stays close to the skin after an hour, but I find this is true of many sandalwood-based scents.

Where can I buy it? $32 for a 30ml edp spray at SonomaScentStudio.com. Try a sample for just $2.50!

Bottleworthy? Sonoma fragrances also comes in a variety of other formats, so be sure to look around to find the product that best suits your tastes.

The Bottom Line: The scent is named 'fireside' but it would need a lot more fire and smoke to suit my personal tastes...And this is what makes Sonoma so great. If you tell the owner and creator that you need a little more of something, it's likely she'll be oblige:

Please send an email to custservice@sonomascentstudio.com before ordering a custom blend to inquire if it is something we can do. If it’s just a simple change to an existing formula, such as increasing/decreasing one ingredient, we can usually do it right away at no extra cost to you.

Though not my favorite sandalwood fragrance, this is one that seems to be missing from the current market, and when accented by cedar and woodsmoke, the composition becomes even more intriguing. As the scent relaxed on my skin, I was offered hints of myrrh and I could have sworn I detected the slightest bit of coffee...of course it may just have been the pot brewing in my kitchen...or possibly even wishful thinking?

Ok, to wrap this up....When I was a teenager, there used to be this great New Age bookstore on King St in Boone, NC that sold everything from oils to incense. I once purchased a tiny bottle of Indian Sandalwood oil that lasted me for years; I loved the richness and complexity of the wood notes and have never been able to find anything that quite compares. Well, without even realizing it, along comes that aroma in Sonoma's Fireside and considering their prices, I think I may just have to get a bottle for old timesake. My favorite part of Fireside is when the creamy, honeyed, velvet textures of the sandalwood unfold - pure Heaven! Now the question is this: Do I enjoy the composition as it is or ask for revved up smoke and myrrh?

Rating (out of 10): As the scent of a "fireside" - 6; As my new favorite sandalwood - 9.

What's your favorite "roaring fire" scent?

REVIEW: Montale, Vetiver des Sables (2004)

2006-06-04T11:12:00.000-04:00

Notes: Wild Vetiver, Mahogany Wood, Iodized Indian Spices.

Pros: An almost creamy vetiver wrapped in an aromatic blanket of spices and woods.

Cons: Slightly sharp during the initial opening of the scent, but this quickly relaxes.

Reminds me of: It's very hard to compare this one, as its not as sweet as Lutens, not as woody as Le Labo, not as dark as MPG, and not as green as Guerlain. To top that off, there's a marine note (saltwater) that lurks throughout adding an intriguing and unique freshness.

Development: Very interesting; the fragrance shifts through a number of different characters while managing to retain the same bouquet; at first it's sharp, then it becomes creamy, then it shows an almost marine/saltwater accord before coming back to the warm, earthiness of the opening.

Longevity: Excellent a good 5-6 hours on my skin.

Sillage: Just right.

Where can I buy it? $122 for a 100ml edp spray at Suravionline.com. Price includes continental shipping within the US and is discounted exclusively for Scenteur7 and Basenotes readers. Please make sure to visit and enter your info for your chance to win special Montale products from Suravi and Scenteur7. Read more here.

Bottleworthy: Most definitely, and I'm not really a vetiver fan.

The Bottom Line: I know I was impressed with the straightforward and oriental nature of Le Labo's Vetiver 43, but I'm even more intrigued with this unusual vetiver composition. Vetiver des Sables is truly all about vetiver, but the sables notes are the key to the magic of this composition with echoes of Goutal's syrupy Sables and CSP's acquatic Motu, a most unusual combination. There's something about this vetiver scent that makes me want to wrap it in chocolate and eat it as a truffle, or perhaps just pour it all over a waffle with vanilla ice cream...sounds gourmand, doesn't it? Yet it isn't really. It's just a bewitching blend of notes that works perfectly. Now, if I can only remove my wrist from my nose for more than 30 seconds, I might actually be able to go out in public and share this scent with fellow citizens.

Rating (out of 10): 8

I know there are a lot of vetiver fans out there - who's tried this one?

NEW RELEASE: Missoni (2006)

2006-06-04T11:11:00.000-04:00

click the pic for more info

From Osmoz.com

The prestigious Italian fashion house Missoni comes back to perfume, in cooperation with Estée Lauder. The color is the main theme of this luxurious creation whose bottles have a different hue according to their size. Red, pink or orange, a festival of colors for this Italian fragrance adorned with joy, passion, and "amore". A weave of luscious fruits, exhilarating florals and gianduia chocolate.

REVIEW: Benetton Colors for Her (1986)

2006-06-04T11:10:00.000-04:00

Notes: Moroccan orange blossom, French hyacinth, Egyptian marigold, Isreali basil, Comoros Island tuberose, French jasmine, Hawaiian pineapple, Caribbean passion fruit, Georgia peach, Bulgarian rose, Madagascar vanilla.

Pros: A large, brash, 80's fruity-floral with warm vanilla undertones; this fragrance has an overall effect and drydown that is both unusual and addictive; the price.

Cons: Might be nostalgia-overload for some; the quality of the actual fragrance varies from bottle to bottle as this scent is literally everywhere - the Starbucks of fragrances - and its hard to know the age and quality of the product.

Reminds me of: Dali Laguna; Cacharel Amor Amor.

Development: The first 5 minutes are definitely not good - an odd misch-masch of notes and alcohol; the next 5 minutes are acceptable as the scent struggles to pull itself together. After about 10 minutes, the magic begins to appear as the entire fragrance relaxes, blends and becomes an incomparable aromatic floral.

Longevity: Lasted about 4-5 hours; lingered from then on close to the skin and throughout the day.

Sillage: Slightly louder than most, but only for about an hour or so.

Where can I buy it? Everywhere! $8.89 for a 100ml edt spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? Oh come on...it's not even $9!

The Bottom Line: I was 12 when I first smelled this on April Balser. We were in 7th grade and she had loved it so much she took to pouring the fragrance into her hairpsray so that she could get even more of a good thing. A few months later when on vacation in St Thomas, an eager saleswoman explained that Colors was a unisex scent and I of course talked mom into buying me a bottle. The following Xmas, Colors for Men (read the review here) started its advertising campaign and I knew I had to get that as well - less floral, more vanilla. Perfect.

There's a certain quality that I've always found Colors to posess that has intrigued me. If I wait long enough, I can still manage to find the creamy edge of white petals and vanilla, but let's face it - there are too many other scents that don't need the warm-up time out of the gate. Still, this is a great, inexpensive starter scent for those looking for gifts or, as I might just use it, an unusual room spray!

Rating (out of 10): 5

What's your Benetton Colors experience?

The New World Awaits...

2006-06-03T11:40:00.000-04:00

Click the pic to visit

Get your bookmarks ready...

thinking caps on...

and enjoy the new look, new concept, new name...

PerfumeCritic.com

Scenteur7 has a new home...a new world awaits!

Dear readers, Scenteur7 is moving during the month of June and will permanently move to its new home on July 1st. Though PerfumeCritic.com (the new site) is still in the fininshing stages, I would greatly appreciate your feedback and ideas as to how I might improve it, visually or technically, and what you might see that I missed! Please feel free to leave comments about PerfumeCritic.com HERE.

ASK MARLEN: Old Leather

2006-06-03T07:49:00.000-04:00

Marlen,

Compliments from a newbie on a very informative and interesting blog. I like leather scents a lot and read your review of Cuiron with great interest. I wish to draw your attention to two relatively unknown and, in my view, vastly underrated Leather scents: Bogart by Jacques Bogart, released in 1975; and the original Dunhill for men, released in 1934. Would it be possible for you to share your opinions on these scents? I'm curious about a connoisseur's view of them.

Thanks,

DHi D,

I haven't smelled either of these fragrances in quite a long time. This alone should give you some indication as to how I felt about these scents, once upon a time. I recently had the opportunity to sniff Bogart's One Man Show and found it such a sign of its time that I truly feel it's just unwearable at this point. I also felt the same way when I had the opportunity to test the original Lanvin Homme, Worth pour Homme and Versailles pour Homme...

Sorry, D. I'm afraid I can't be of much help here. Maybe some of the readers will have some comments for you.

Marlen

NEW RELEASE: Rochas, Reflets d'Eau

2006-06-03T07:18:00.000-04:00

...new ROCHAS scents for Men and Women,

Reflets d'Eau pour Homme

Reflets d'Eau pour Femme

MUST-READS: Go Daddy!

2006-06-02T15:32:00.000-04:00

click the logo above to read my first article for BeautyAddictMag.com:

Go Daddy - Scents for Father's Day

REVIEW: Benetton, Colors for Men (1988)

2006-06-02T11:02:00.000-04:00

Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Cypress, Vanilla, Cedar, Patchouli.

Pros: A simple composition that has just the right amount of good stuff.

Cons: Benetton's fragrances seem almost cliche nowadays, having somewhat undeservedly found a low-price, bottom of the shelf existence at Perfumanias and discount shops world over. If your inner fragrance snob can move past this, you may be in for a treat.

Reminds me of: Shalimar Light; Molinard Vaniteck; Etro Shaal Nur.

Development: Minimal, but then this is not a terribly complex composition; the warm, oriental drydown is my favorite part.

Longevity: Excellent - lasts about 6-8 hours on my skin.

Sillage: Also, excellent.

Where can I buy it? Everywhere; $9.99 for a 100ml edt spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? Most definitely, expecially for those who enjoy vanilla and lemon aromas.

The Bottom Line: One of the first fragrances I ever wore, and one that I keep coming back to, Colors for Men has consistently managed to find a place in both my heart and wardrobe. Though neither a masterpeice nor ingenious, Colors simply smells great, lasts forever, and costs next to nothing. Better than that, there is really not much else out there that compares with this citrusy, masculine oriental that works as well in warmer weather as it does in cooler. I'd offer decants, but let's face it...at the price above, you're better off just going whole hog!

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your take on Benetton Colors?

REVIEW: Benetton Colors for Women

ASK MARLEN: Three more?

2006-06-01T17:33:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

My name is J and I was wondering if you could make some suggestions for me? I've read alot of your reviews and Addicted column (the Singapore one had me rolling) and I've made 2 blind buys per your Basenotes reviews - both were spot on: Armand Basi and Roma Uomo. So, if I were going to own say 3 fragrances, all different but distinct, which ones would you suggest?

Thanks for your time,
J
Hi J,

I'm happy you've enjoyed the writing and the recommendations, thanks for reading! Ok, here are some ideas:

1) If you wanted to stay in the same family, masculine orientals, here are 3 of my other favorites:

2) If you wanted to expand and add some other styles of fragrance to your wardrobe, how about these?

Classic

Guerlain Habit Rouge

Fresh Aromatic

Cologne Mugler

Masculine Floral

Givenchy Insense

Woody-Incense

Cacharel Nemo

Gourmand

Angel for Men

Green Fougere

Trophee Lancome

Ok, hope this gives you a starting point. Be sure to read the comments for each review as there may be some valuable suggestions from other readers there!

Marlen

CONTEST: June is Montale Madness month

2006-06-01T16:12:00.000-04:00

What is it? A new contest for the month of June!

What can I win? 10 ml decants of Montale's Patchouli Leaves or Oud Cuir d'Arabie; assorted samples of Montale fragrances.

What should I do? Visit the new site for Suravionline.com and join their mailing list. Suravi is an exclusive fragrance boutique in Tampa, Florida that sells the best niche and hard-to-find fragrances including Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan (coming soon!!!), Miller Harris, Carthusia, John Mac Steed, New West, Beth Terry of Creative Universe, Montale, Amouage, Jean Pascal of Colombia (Basenotes interview coming soon!) and so much more! Suravi has graciously agreed to donate Montale products and to offer unique discounts to Scenteur7 readers - thank you, Suravi!

JUST CLICK HERE and complete the secure online application. Your information will NOT be shared and you will not be solicited. By completing this form, you will be eligible for other great prizes and giveaways, and will be entitled to receive discounts on your favorite perfumes just by being a Scenteur7 reader!

IMPORTANT: Please be sure to include the following in the comments section at Suravi:

Scenteur7 Montale Contest

When will I know if I won? Up to 5 winners will be announced on July 1st when both Suravi and Scenteur7 unvail their new websites.

Have fun exploring Suravionline.com and stay tuned for new Montale reviews throughout the month of June at Scenteur7 and NowSmellThis!

ASK MARLEN: Brun and Basileus

2006-06-01T15:33:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen -

Before anything else, I wanted to say I truly enjoy reading your blog and your reviews on Basenotes. Your posts are articluate, sometimes humorous, but always informative.

The real reason for my email is twofold. First, I was wondering if you still had decants of The Brun available? Secondly, have you had a chance to smell Basileus or Paris Tour Eiffel by Rene Laruelle? If you have, I'd certainly appreciate hearing your opinions.

Rene and I exchanged several emails late last year about both fragrances but I have yet to smell either one.

Thanks,
Buzzcut
Hey Buzz,

In fact, I do still have decants available of The Brun and I sent you a separate email about prices.

As for Basileus and Paris Tour Eiffel, I have tried only the former and have a bottle of it. It is a very classic, 80's style scent with a clean, almost soapy edge. I'll be posting a full review of it in the coming weeks, so be sure to stay tuned! I have also tried Basier de Soie, Le Jardin des Floralies, and his newest, the 2006 release, Calame (my personal favorite). Reviews of these are also coming soon!

Thanks for reading and posting!
Marlen

EVENT: June Sniffapaloozas!

2006-06-01T11:14:00.000-04:00

click the pic to register and for more information

A message from Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza:

This Saturday, June 3, we are going to have a "SoHo Family Sniffa" at Le Labo and Bond No. 9, with each shop holding educational and fun presentations for parents & children ages 8 and up.

Then on June 10, we'll be holding a breakfast and Perfume Workshop at Bendels (presented by L'Artisan and Chandler Burr of the NYTimes), followed by a trip to Spa Ja. We are limited to 50 attendee's, but we still have some spaces open.

To register or for more information, click the pic above. I won't be attending these summer events, but am planning to attend the big October, 2006 bash in NYC. See you there!

MYSTERY SCENT CHALLENGE: May, Identity Revealed

2006-06-01T08:54:00.000-04:00

So...what was the mystery scent for May?

Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar (1989)

Notes: Bergamot, Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender, Jasmine, Caraway, Cinnamon, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber.

Good guesses, everyone. Stay tuned for another Mystery Scent Challenge when Scenteur7 moves to its new home at PerfumeCritic.com.

ASK MARLEN: Habituation

2006-05-31T18:46:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

Please can you explain a bit more about 'longevity' with perfumes: I've always understood that it is not the wearer who is the best judge - the wearer's nose is quickly saturated by the scent and can not judge its intensity after a very short time; it's the sniffers who could best judge longevity. It seems to me that the result is that the wearer applies more and more scent, and the sniffers are overwhelmed.....

PDear P,

This is a great topic of much debate right now as more and more people complain of fellow citizens wearing offensive fragrances that cause somatic reactions. In fact, my next Basenotes' 'Addicted' column will be on that very issue. But back to the matter at hand...at nose?

It's true, our own noses do betray us and cannot perceive our fragrances at the same intensity over time that other people we come into contact with can. This is why longevity is usually a matter of great subjectivity. However, there are some fragrances that for whatever reason - concentration of oils, specific compositions, reaction with the wearer's skin - that do have much better lasting power. When appraising fragrances, etxraneous factors abound; our health, competing aromas, how much fragrance is applied, etc. can all affect how we perceive a scent's longevity.

Here's some fascinating info and links:

anosmia - when an individual has the inability to perceive a specific odor.
hyposmia - not a total inability, but a diminished capacity to perceive an odor.
habituation - when we need more and more of something, in this case, an odor, in order to sense it. As part of our primitive fight or flight responses, our brains learned to diminish the perception of an odor over time so that other odors could more be readily perceived.
Kallman Syndrome - Now here's the super combo meal of odd disorders (notice the prevalence of 'micropenis'...there's a word you don't toss about in daily conversation): Hypogonadotropic hypogonadism (wait, wait...what was that? Ok...try saying it ten times fast) combined with Congenital (present from birth) anosmia or hyposmia.

Hope this helps!
Marlen

NEW RELEASE: Thierry Mugler Summer Flash (2006)

2006-05-31T17:56:00.000-04:00

click the pic to view more information

From Osmoz.com:

An extra-cool, fluorescent-green hued eau, Cologne Summer Flash is a summer edition that will thrill your senses with its freshness. Enhanced with a ‘cooling effect’, the fragrance blends the familiarity of citrus scents with the secret of the ‘S’ note. For men and women to share.

MUST-READS: 'Me and Jasina' at Basenotes.net

2006-05-30T08:05:00.000-04:00

click the pic to read my best Addicted column yet!

Basenotes.net

ASK MARLEN: Eternally Sexy

2006-05-29T08:40:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

I just read you comments about fragrances you've purchased twice. One of those you mentioned was Eternity. I'm still on the fence about this classic fragrance. Sometimes, when I smell it in the store, I like it. Other times, it smells run of the mill. Maybe it's because I can't decipher all the different notes. Can you tell me some of Eternity's characteristics? Also, would you consider Victoria's Secret Very Sexy for men a similar fragrance? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks for your help!
Eternally SexyDear ES,

Ya know, the moment I smelled Very Sexy, I thought "Eternity", so you are right on the money by thinking that the the two are similar.

Let's look at olfactory pyramids:

CK Eternity for Men (1989)

Top Notes
Mandarin, Lavender, Green Botanics.

Middle Notes
Jasmine, Basil, Geranium, Sage.

Base Notes
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Rosewood, Amber.

Victoria's Secret Very Sexy for Men (2001)

Top Notes
Tangerine, Pink Lime, Bergamot Leaves.

Middle Notes
Limewood, Cinnamon Bark, Sage.

Base Notes
Vetiver, Orange Flower.

...and here's a third for comparison:

Michel Germain Sexual pour Homme (1996)

Top Notes
Indian Basil, Bergamot, Clementine.

Middle Notes
Lavender, Gardenia, Sage.

Base Notes
Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk.

I remember the first time I sniffed the magazine scent strip for Eternity and just about fell out of my chair. I was in love with the fresh, breezy aroma and firmly believe that the current state of Eternity is not what it once was. It smells somehow changed to me - not as fresh, not as dewy. That being said, there is something about Very Sexy that I find a bit harsh and the drydown has a note that smells like Cabbage Patch Kid head.

Sexual is another inspired fragrance, and perhaps even more similar to Eternity but for a few key differences - the drydown is closer to that of an oriental, and the overall effect seems somewhat more intense: stronger wood and brighter citrus notes. Additionally, the longevity of Sexual is the most powerful of the three.

Which one is best? Well, I'll stick with my Eternity but leave the choice up to you. All three may be purchased at a nice discount on the net. Sadly, as copies of Eternity have just about been done to death (and I do mean overkill bordering on roadkill), you might be finding the general aroma to be somewhat dated and passe.

The Bottom Line: Try them on your skin and see which one works best for you over a period of 3 or 4 hours.

Thanks for the great question, and I hope I didn't bore you with my long-winded answer!

Marlen

ASK MARLEN: A model profession

2006-05-28T08:47:00.000-04:00

Dear Marlen,

I'm probably going to go into the fragrance model field soon, as Beaute Prestige International (BPI; the maker of Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake fragrances) needs a new model because the current one (who both I and my Dad I know very well) is leaving. Making things worse, they need the model by early June because of the Gaultier2 US launch (yeah, I know you're not a fan of the stuff, but I'm still waiting for it). So, they offered me the position. While I'm waiting for a response from both them and Macy's, I could use some advice on fragrance model tricks of the trade given your past history as one. Here's some examples:

Should I use statistics every now and then (a la "Le Male is the #1 men's fragrance in Europe")?
How should I target customers of the competitors? Around here, the best-smellers are Angel, Chanel No. 5, Euphoria, and all those celebuscents in women's and Acqua di Gio, Chrome, Armani Code, Polo Black, and Angel Men in men's.
Should I wear clothes that match the character of the fragrance being modeled?
And finally, what are some sure-fire ways to boost sales of existing products?

I'd love to hear back from you soon!

Sincerely,
Z

Hey Z!

How ya doin, buddy? Congrats on the new position! I considered going back to freelancing as a model again, but then decided to focus my energy on writing and developing my blog instead...I'm envious!

To answer your questions, the best thing I can do is tell you how I operated. First, each department store has its own dress code so be sure to ask. I always wore my favorite jackets/suits with a tie, but a lot of the stores are becoming less formal. My goal was to get to know all the customers and find out what they wanted. I didn't take the approach that I was there merely to sell my lines. I was just one more knowledgeable person (usually more so than the salespeople) who was there to help the customer have a great experience. My knowledge about scent and the compositions of all the fragrances usually impressed the customers and they found shopping with me to be educational and fun, and very personalized. I kept customer info so I could call/email them with info about new proucts, special offers, etc. The store sales associates usually appreciated this approach, because it almost always ended up in commission for them, which in turn made them happy, which in turn meant that they showed MY fragrances more often because they felt it was a way to return the favor! That being said, Macy's is a bit different than the stores I've worked in, so best to ask the people in the store and other linespeople who work there how they approach it. You mentioned using statistics to help sell, and my response to that would be, "Would it impress you and make you want to buy?"

A lot of my job consisted of constantly having samples ready, and that meant hounding the line reps for testers and products to show and share with customers. When I had no samples, I made my own. When there were no gift packages, I made my own...know what I mean? But having something to offer customers, something which they can take home and spend time with, often helped them remember my products.

I think the bottom line is not to be too pushy, but to make sure everyone has some positive association with your line - after all a little publicity can go a long way. Customers usually didn't know that I worked for the line and not for the store; I treated them like friends who I would help to find their holy grail scent rather than shopping cutomers to which I was trying to make a hard sale. I think that worked well for me at the stores that I was at (Saks, Niemans and Nordies). I also found it useful to find out if they were buying a gift or shopping for themselves; what scents they currently used or liked/disliked, etc; and no matter what they bought or didn't buy, I always made sure customers left with samples of my scents.

Does this help? Feel free to ask a few more questions!

Marlen

REVIEW: Le Labo Vetiver 46 (2006)

2006-05-25T17:41:00.000-04:00

Notes: Vetiver, olabinum, cedre, labdanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, black pepper, gaiac wood and clove.

Pros: A scent with the "wow" factor - sprayed it on this morning having never smelled it before and actually exclaimed "wow"...

Cons: Really none...other than the limited distribution and price tag.

Reminds me of: The vetiver has a sweetness to it (perhaps because of the clove and vanilla) that reminds me of CSP Vetyver Haiti.

Development: This one didn't really unfold or develop much.

Longevity: Very good - about 6 hrs.

Sillage: Perfect - enough so that I was offered a compliment, but not so much that it was overwhelming.

Where can I buy it? .5 oz $45; 1.7 oz $115; 3.7 $180 at LeLaboFragrances.com.

Bottleworthy? A must-try for vetiver lovers!

The Bottom Line: Well, Vetiver 46 isn't going to win any awards for originality, but it definitely gets my award for most wearable vetiver fragrance. Though I'm not really a die-hard fan of the grassy vetivers (Guerlain), the dark earthy vetivers (Villoresi), or the lighthearted takes on vetiver (ElizabethW), Le Labo's Vetiver 46 offers a well-rounded composition in which the supporting players are just as interesting, and the vetiver, though ever-present is surprisingly enjoyable. Overall, an easy-to-wear oriental with just enough of the sweet and woody to keep the composition interesting. I'm looking forward to wearing this one again. Well done!

Rating (out of 10): 9 (and that's coming from someone who isn't a vetiver lover).

What's your favorite take on vetiver?

*Bottle in image is Bergamote 22

Stay tuned for a review of Montale's Vetiver des Sables next Thursday!

ASK MARLEN: A rose by any other name

2006-05-25T17:33:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen!

How are you? Say, I thought I'd run this by you...I'm intrigued by male scents with rose in them. I wouldn't say that I'm into heavily floral scents, but I like having floral elements amongst other notes. I ran across Iquitos, which I think I mentioned to you, and now I see that Zino Davidoff has rose notes, too. Both of these sound very interesting and are unavailable in my area. I do realize that they're probably very different, though I notice that they're from the same era. Maybe I could wait on these, as I gather they're more for cool weather. Then again, I may feel free to violate this sort of division! ;)

If you have a moment or two and would like to share your thoughts, that would be great!

Thanks again,

D
Hi D!

I'm great, thanks, just found a nice apartment in the town where I'll be living so my day is made! As for rose scents...well, neither Zino nor Iquitos is particularly rose-ish, though Iquitos definitely seems to have a more of a rose tinge than Zino. Zino is a big, brash, masculine musk and woods scent, while Iquitos is more of a chypre, focusing on the mossy notes (actually, Iquitos reminds me of an incense a friend brought me from India). If you're really looking for rose, then let me suggest the following 3 fragrances:

L'Artisan Voleur de Roses
Rosine Rose d'Homme
Diptyque Opone

All 3 scents offer a slightly different approach to rose, and samples can be easily obtained online at lusciouscargo.com and aedes.com! Don't forget Burberry Brit - it has an accent of rose in the middle notes and is a pretty good fragrance that I seem to be coming back to quite often this spring, and finally, many of the Middle Eastern attars are going to offer a pure (and often warm and spicy) punch of rose!

Now, that being said, here are some other rose scents that are not necessarily men's fragrances, but that I really enjoy anyhow:

Agent Provocateur
Serge Lutens Sa Majeste la Rose
Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie
Rosine Folie de Roses
Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises
Montale Aoud Queen Roses
Montale Attar

Hope this helps!

Marlen

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Balenciaga, Talisman (1994)

2006-05-24T09:33:00.000-04:00

Notes: Lychee, Dried Fruits, Osmanthus, Rum, Rose, Jasmine, Freesia, Cyclamen, Patchouli, Sandal, Beeswax, Vanilla.

50 ml spray: Retail price $52; Parfum1.com $14.95

The Bottom Line: Long before Angel was spreading its wings and soaring, Balenciaga was inspired to try its own gourmand, and though not a commercial triumph, I do believe they succeeded. Talisman is a warm, rich gourmand in the style of Frapin and Todd Oldham, a great big boozey fruity floral turned on its head with the addition of notes like beeswax and rum. Though not as cloying as it might sound, it definitely packs a punch. Equally appropriate for a man or woman, pick this one up now for cool autumn evenings and let this Talisman work its magic.

ASK MARLEN: A yen for scents

2006-05-24T08:47:00.000-04:00

Hey,

I'm currently in Tokyo, and will be traveling around Japan the next two months and was wondering if there was any worthwhile fragrances to sniff out here that are only available in Japan (or are just easier to get in Japan).

Any recommendations would be great- and places where I could find them would be even more helpful.

Thanks a lot!

D

Hi D,

Best to browse the fragrance sites at rakuten.co.jp - check my blog "Where Marlen Shops" for recommended sites. My favorite is:

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/benlux/

This way you can see for yourself what's available and pricing. In Tokyo, Aoyama, Shinjuku, and Ginza are all great areas for shopping, but the best prices are at the little discount perfume and cosmetic shops in train stations and on the net.

There are a few Japanese sites which offer traditional perfumery, but the prices are very high and the sites are Japanese only. One of the lesser-priced companies is Je et Mon, about $30 for a 50ml spray. I have #12, a light agarwood. The scents are nice, but ultimately can't compare with other niche lines in longevity and sillage.

As for Japan-only scents, they're hard to find, the quality of many is mediocre at best, and the majority are geared towards young women. I recommend trying some of the typical Shiseido and Kanebo products that can be purchased at most pharmacies and beauty shops. There's more info if you do a search on Basenotes in the Shopping Guides board. The best thing you can probably pick up is the new Shiseido Men eau de toilette - see my review here: Shiseido Men

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Marlen

RANT: Chelsea Flowers

2006-05-23T11:51:00.000-04:00

For the drag queen in all of us...

Ok. I have to be honest. I really like this scent. You know the one - Bond #9 Chelsea Flowers. With a name that sounds like somewhere between porn kitten and Queen of the Night - though I'm quite aware that it's actually alluding to this...

... - Chelsea Flowers is a surprisingly fresh and green floral and the scent that originally turned me on to Bond.

COMING SOON....

2006-05-23T11:37:00.000-04:00

Coming this June to Scenteur7...

The War of the Roses

...only one will win.

REVIEW: Santa Maria Novella, Citta di Kyoto (2005)

2006-05-23T09:35:00.000-04:00

Notes: Iris, lotus, bergamot, orange, jasmine, hyacinth, rose, hawthorn, ylang-ylang, plum, peach, cinnamon, sandalwood, cedar, ebony, ambergris and vanilla.

Pros: A departure from SMN's typical single note scents; a woody incense composition that is light enough to wear in warmer weather without becoming overwhelming.

Cons: Difficult to track down; overall sillage could be better.Reminds me of: Comme des Garcons Avignon; Armani Mania for Women (original); Kisu.

Development: I love the vanilla and woods in the base, balanced by the lighter, sweeter topnotes.

Longevity: Didn't last as long as I had hoped, though slightly longer than some of SMN's single note scents. It remained detectable for about 1.5-2 hours.

Sillage: Minimal - stays close to the skin.

Where can I buy it? $84 for a 100ml edt at Aedes.com.

Bottleworthy? Try this one along with the CDG Incense series to get a feel for what works best for you.

The Bottom Line: Slightly less expensive than the CDG scents, with a similar feel and stunning bottle, Santa Maria Novella's Citta di Kyoto, or Kyoto City is the newest multiple note, layered composition (my favorite still being Nostalgia). It has a similar feel to Norma Kamali's Incense and Tan Rokka's Kisu, though remains much lighter than the former, and slightly more complex than the latter. The aroma is very well-crafted with some stunning moments, especially the leafy green nuances that float in and out of the beginning stages of the scent. Overall, Citta di Kyoto delivers a trail of floral-woody incense smoke that is very, very accurate. The aroma brings me back to standing in Higashi Honganji temple in Kyoto, bare feet pressed to woven tatami mats, o bosan is chanting up at front, and trails of incense smoke rise to the heavens. Welcome to the City of Kyoto.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your favorite Santa Maria Novella scent?

ASK MARLEN: A Dunhill of Cuiron

2006-05-23T08:42:00.000-04:00

Marlen,

First, my compliments on an educative and enjoyable blog. I'm a 32 year old male who's only lately taken an interest in perfumes, and your blog and your reviews on Basenotes have been very helpful; for that, my thanks. I write to know how the following perfumes strike you : Cuiron pour Homme - Helmut Lang and Dunhill Edition - Alfred Dunhill.

I look forward to your reviews.

Best Regards,
KHi K,

Thanks for reading and for the great question. Let's start with Cuiron (2002; $20.99 at ImaginationPerfumery.com) - I remember all the buzz around this one and the early reviews on Basenotes (more than a few folks thought they had found their holy grail scents). I got a bottle, sprayed it on, wondered what the fuss was, wondered where the leather was, and then promptly dismissed it. A few months later, I received a second bottle, having swapped the first and wondering if perhaps I had missed something. Nope. Nowhere to be found were the buttery almost saffron-like leather notes I prefer. Rich, smoky, sweet - all missing. Instead I smelled a misch-masch of notes, mostly tobacco and some indistinct olibanum with citrus and pepper added for good measure. Again, I wasn't thrilled. Where was the leather?

As for Dunhill, this is a line that I sniff once just to get to know what the newest scent smells like, out of a sense of duty more than curiosity, and then never return to again. Dunhill Edition (1984; $25.99 at ImaginationPerfumery.com), however, is actually a little different story.

Though not a scent I would choose for myself, there is something very intriguing about it. Considering the time in which it was created, Dunhill Edition is a surprisingly crisp and green aroma, similar in my mind to Cerruti 1881, sharing many of the same notes. The scent embodies a watery lightness that a number of 80's scents had been experimenting with just prior to the marine/ozone/green tea explosion of the late 80's and early 90's. Therefore it's missing the "sweet and fruity" factor that ruin so many of today's launches. The only drawback, to my nose, is that both 1881 and Edition share what I call "the band-aid factor" exhibiting the tendency to smell a bit plastic, a phenomenon that I often experience with lavender aromas. More than 20 years after its original launch, Dunhill Edition is still around, still striking, and still terribly sexy on the right person.

Marlen

NEW RELEASE: Guerlain, Aqua Allegoria Grosellina (2006)

2006-05-21T10:26:00.000-04:00

click the pic for more info

Top note :
Bergamot, Lemon, Tangerine

Middle note :
Red Currant, White Tea, Raspberry Leaf

Base note :
Cassie, Powdery Note

MULTIMEDIA: Teenage boys learn the power of aromatherapy

2006-05-18T10:05:00.000-04:00

from YouTube

Don't forget the contest! Free Different Company Mini's

2006-05-18T10:02:00.000-04:00

Just a reminder...

Don't forget our Different Company giveaway!

Dream up your own fragrance to win a set of three 2ml minis.

Click the pic to read more about it!

REVIEW: Terre d'Hermes (2006)

2006-05-18T09:25:00.000-04:00

Notes: Cedar, Grapefruit, Orange, Gunflint, Silex, Pepper, Baies Roses, Geranium Leaves, Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin.

Pros: Light, fresh earthy aroma. Classy bottle.

Cons: A little too heavy on the dry notes.

Reminds me of: Cartier Declaration (Birch wood, Bergamot, Bitter orange, Juniperwood, Artemisia, Cardamom, Cold spices, Oak, Cedar wood, Vetiver)

Development: The entire aroma relaxes and softens after application. From there, I can detect the citrus fruit and pepper, and a heavy vetiver note. There is a transparency about the composition aided by the citrus and geranium notes.

Longevity & Sillage: Quiet and close to the skin within an hour of application.

Where can I buy it? $43.99 for a 50ml edt spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? Wait a few months until the price drops - this could make a great Xmas gift for Dad!

The Bottom Line: It leaves me a little cold, though there are times when the almost peanut buttery benzoin melds with the vetiver to create a unique earthy accord. But it fades rather quickly, revealing shimmering grapefruit and orange notes. Others have compared this to to the two Jardin fragrances by Hermes, concluding that they all share a similar transparency and simplicity and I'd agree. This scent reminds me of the dryness in Boucheron pour Homme and Krizia Time Uomo. I kept wanting slightly sweet and aromatic notes to open up from the background of the composition and relax it, but to no avail. Though it was an interesting experience, Hermes' Terre is not one I'd quickly return to.

Rating (out of 10): 6

What's your favorite of the men's Hermes scents?

ASK MARLEN: Terre de Jasmine

2006-05-18T09:00:00.000-04:00

Marlen,

I was hoping to hear your thoughts on the newest offering from Hermes.

Love it? Hate it? Indifferent? Havent tried it?

I myself am not wowed by it but the mixture of vetiver and citrus was enough to convince me to adopt a bottle for the summer while in Dallas 3 days ago (as I personally have never smelled such a thing). So I guess what I am asking is, what is your bottom line on this frag?

Also, if you have time, would you mind recommending some jasmine fragrances that you find outstanding to me? Im looking for something that has an apparent jasmine note that doesn't become a light floral mess.

Thank you.
-JHi J,

Perhaps you've noted my silence about this fragrance? Yes, it's true, I'm not a fan. While I can find things to like about it (there IS an elegance about the product, from box, to bottle, to composition) overall, this is a scent with overwhelming cedar and vetiver from start to finish, and that turns me off. The dryness is what most gets me and immediately calls to mind such stinkers as Cartier Declaration, Kenzo Jungle for Men, and Eau d'Hermes. It's not that these fragrances are bad, really, just about as far from "my thing" as it gets.

Ok, you asked about jasmine fragrances and a few came to mind. My first thought was Hanae Mori for Men Eau Fraiche, as it focuses more on the floral aspects than the gourmand ones. My next thought was Montale's Jasmin Full, one of my new personal favorites, and finally, there's Gendarme, my favorite. I love the jasmine and citrus top notes set against the light musk and leather notes. I can actually smell the jasmine in this one!

Hope this helps, and feel free to keep those questions coming!

Marlen

Gendarme 20 and Carriere decants available, email me!

Pick a Montale

2006-05-18T08:32:00.000-04:00

I'd like to review 4 Montale scents and have access to samples of all of them,

so you tell me...

Which ones should I review?

click the pic for more info and a complete list of scents

See my Review of Sandalsilver (Skin)

MUST-READS: Jean-Charles Brosseau The Brun Review at Now Smell This

2006-05-16T18:44:00.000-04:00

click the pic above to read the review

Decants available, email me!

IMAGES: The Scent of Public S...

2006-05-16T08:48:00.000-04:00

Time To Play...

...so good you'll want to do it right there.

Bruno Banani, 2002

p.s. - and look at the shape of the bottle - oy!

REVIEW: Joop! Nightflight (1992)

2006-05-16T08:27:00.000-04:00

Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Coriander, Apple, Pineapple, Jasmine, Juniper, Lavender, Lily of the Valley, Dry Amber, Sandalwood, Cumin.

Pros: The pineapple note really sparkles against the warmer woods and amber. An unusual fragrance that still smells as wonderful as it did when it first launched nearly 15 years ago.

Cons: A complex composition, this might be a little too much for those with simpler tastes.

Reminds me of: Chopard Heaven; DKNY Be Delicious for Men; J del Pozo Quasar

Development: After initial application, the pineapple and apple notes take center stage before quieting down to reveal a floral-tinged woods and amber heart.

Longevity: A winner, folks...lasts forever.

Sillage: Again, excellent, if not a little strong.

Where can I buy it? $26.99 for a 4.2 oz edt spray tester at 1stPerfume.com.

Bottleworthy? Absolutely, for both men and women.

The Bottom Line: Though the name always reminds me of that cheezy 80's late night music video program on USA networks, this is really one of my favorite scents from the 90's - a complete departure from the original men's Joop! in the burgundy bottle. Nowadays, it seems that Nightflight may surpass Joop! in terms of popularity and wearability due to its versatility and understated elegance. I could have sworn that there was also an almond note in Nighflight, and I can almost smell the sweet nutty tones in the base of the fragrance, but alas, its not listed in the pyramid. Overall, a must-try for fragrance lovers and for anyone looking for something a little unusual.

Rating (out of 10): 8

Decants available, email me!

Have you ever tried Nightflight?

$78 - Thank You!

2006-05-16T08:26:00.000-04:00

Scenteur7 has raised $78 for the Orphan Foundation of America.

Thanks for your thoughtful comments and contributions
during this special Mother's Day charitable event...

Learn more about Benevolent Blogging by clicking the pic above!

BATH & BODY: Etro Sandalo Hair and Body Shampoo

2006-05-16T08:10:00.000-04:00

What is it: A moderately-scented hair and body shampoo.

Why should I buy it? The perfect companion to any of your other Etro scents, and hey, it'll add a little character to bath time. The sandalwood oil is light and sweet, leaving a faint trail of scent on your skin after showering.

Where can I buy it? $24.99 at PerfumeDistributor.com.

The Bottom Line: Nicely scented, but a little pricey. There really is nothing special or unusual about this stuff as far as sandalwood shower gels go. At the discounted price, it might be worth a little luxury. Actually, compared to three other sandalwood shower gels I've tried, this one was the best.

Rating (out of 10): 6

What's your favorite sandalwood-scented bath product?

MUST-READS: The Erotic History of Advertising

2006-05-15T20:23:00.000-04:00

click the pic to read the article

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Salvatore Ferragamo pour Femme Parfum (1998)

2006-05-15T19:55:00.000-04:00

Notes: Anise, Blackcurrant Absolute, Neroli, Rose, Lily of the Valley, Pepper, Musk, Raspberry, Sweet Almonds.

1/2 oz Perfume: Retail $115; Parfum 1.com $38.95

The Bottom Line: The notes certainly make it look sweeter than it actually is and you'd expect a leather-based scent from Ferragamo's first fragrant outing, but instead, we have a soft powdery floral. This is more of a sheer scent than your typical creamy floral bouquet, and brings to mind white linen sheets. This is one that could easily fit into the Clean family of scents with hints of raspberry and pepper woven into the composition. Youthful, light, and at that price, another great way to fit pure perfume into your wardrobe.

REVIEW: YSL Opium Fleur Imperiale (2006)

2006-05-15T11:46:00.000-04:00

Notes: Mandarin Orange, Neroli, Apricot, Jasmine, Osmanthus and Vanilla.

Pros: Orange blossom, jasmine, and vanilla...what's not to like?

Cons: Bland enough so that everyone will like it.

Reminds me of: Opium Fleur de Shanghai

Development: None.

Longevity: Not bad - though a softer scent, this stuff stuck around until the next morning.

Sillage: Nice, but subtle...

Where can I buy it? $47.99 at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? A scent for die-hard Opium fans who have just finished their current bottle of Opium.

The Bottom Line: A beautiful floriental, gone are the smokey resins of the Opium I once knew. Well, there's a trace, under the very subtle and slightly sweet floral notes. A quiet Opium, a fresher Opium, a softer Opium. I know some of you have heard this before, but my step-mother Shelley loves the original Opium. I bought her a summer version of Opium which she claims to have left at her mother's house; I bought her the Shanghai version which she hasn't touched. When asked why she didn't care for these as much, she replied, "I prefer my Opium in full-hooker strength." When asked her opinion on Imperiale, she offered "that's nice" and carried on with her day.

Rating (out of 10): 6

Decants available, email me!

Has anyone tried the Men's Opium summer edition? Anyone wanna trade me a sample?

NEW RELEASE: Azzaro, Bright Visit (2006)

2006-05-15T09:53:00.000-04:00

click the pic to view more information

AZZARO

Bright Visit for Men

Two facets: a ‘Bright’ one that releases fresh, green, aqueous waves of scent (black currant, Mediterranean herbs, starfruit, reeds), the other evokes ‘Visit’ and its woody-spicy-amber trail. The fresh alliance of the two creates a sense of freedom and lightness. Acetyver is a tangier version of vetiver essence, ‘with a slightly bitter freshness’.

ASK MARLEN: A Total Headache

2006-05-15T09:49:00.000-04:00

Hello,

I am a member of the Basenotes community and I have a little favour to ask...I know that you have sampled TONS of fragrances so I was wondering if you would make a suggestion for which fragrance(s) is/are suitable for people that normally get headaches from perfumes. I really love perfumes but once I try them on - the headaches follow. I'd really like to hear/read your suggestions before making my next purchase.

Regards,
PHi P,

This is a tough one as the common practice seems to be "if they give you headaches, then don't wear them," however, there are so many different ways to approach fragrances these days, that I'm sure we can find a solution.

First of all, here are three pages that offer info, research, and advice about what to do if you have sensitivities to perfumed products:

http://www.docnotes.net/000825.html
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~aair/perfume_corr.htm
http://allergies.about.com/od/fragrances/

Next, try and keep some kind of record of your symptoms and what triggers them - perhaps you can identify specific products or scents that cause the most harm so as to avoid them in the future. Now, I'm not sure if it's specifically fragrance or all scented products that trigger your headaches. If it's the Eau de Toilette that causes problems, maybe a scented oil could be a replacement or perhaps just using the scented body products like lotion, soap or aftershave?

Another option is to look for scents that are made with all-natural/ organically grown ingredients so as to minimize your potential risk to additional potentially harmful chemicals. Here's a great site to get you started:

http://www.happyhippie.com/directory/beauty.htm

The final option, aside from individually testing your favorite fragrances to see how they work with your body, is to get creative and try to make your own scent. Sure, you could only spray your clothes or your hair with the scent, avoiding potential skin irritation, but with headaches, just the aroma alone migh be enough to make you ill.

A few of our readers practice natural perfumery and perhaps they can offer some guidance in this area. I hope you find a solution that allows you to enjoy aroma without the hassle of the headaches.

Thanks!
Marlen

IMAGES: Get mom high...

2006-05-14T10:10:00.000-04:00

Cocaina en Flor by Parera
ca 1933

click the pics to visit the museum!

INSIDE THE PYRAMID: Tagetes?

2006-05-14T07:09:00.000-04:00

I'm not gonna even pretend I have any clue what the heck tagetes is. I came across this one while writing today's Mother's Day post about Obsession. If I had to guess, I'd say a seed of some kind...Let's Wikipedia tagetes and see what we can find...

Tagetes is apparently the name for a genus of daisy indigenous to Mexico and South America but is more commonly know as Marigold (African, French, Mexican) and has an aroma that is commonly used as a top note in perfumery. Edenbotanicals.com adds "With a wild, sweet, almost citrus-like aroma, Tagetes excels in repelling insects and treating wounds, infections, and respiratory conditions. Although Tagetes is not often acquired for its aroma, it is said that this oil is used extensively in French perfumes."

So, Tagetes is a Marigold, huh? Wow, I never knew!

Let's see...Some of my favorite fragrances with tagetes or marigold include:

Davidoff Relax
XS Black
Prescriptives Calyx
Joop! All About Eve
Dolce and Gabbana for Women
Cacharel Lou Lou
Aromantic by Decleor
Burberry for Men

What's your favorite scent with tagetes or marigold?

NEW RELEASE: Nickel, Eau Maximum (2006)

2006-05-14T07:08:00.000-04:00

Click the pic to learn more

A cocktail of freshness and energy built around an unusual, coca-leaf note. Citrus, basil, red thyme, wood and musks add their vibrantly masculine notes. Created by Jean Pierre Bethouart, Firmenich.

Holy, Mother! Part V: Calvin Klein Obsession (1985)

2006-05-14T06:43:00.000-04:00

#1) My favorite scent that Mom has worn in the last couple of decades is definitely a Calvin Klein oriental. Who knew it could smell so good? With rich velvety vanilla, creamy white petals, and sweet amber, this seemed to be a logical step after Shalimar and Must.

OBSESSION for Women by Calvin Klein

Notes: Mandarin, Bergamot, Vanillin, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Coriander, Tagette, Amber, Oakmoss.

Pros: Rich, sparkling, honeyed oriental.

Cons: May be a little too ambery and sweet for some.

Reminds me of: Patou Sublime; Must de Cartier

Where can I buy it? $35.89 for a 100ml edp tester spray at Scentiments.com.

The Bottom Line: Mom fell in love with this one in the late 90's, having admired it on other women. After Must came Obsession, and it's been nothing else since. Though I question the heaviness of a scent like Obsession being worn in 90F South Florida heat, Mom wears it and loves it and often complains that she can't smell it, "I wonder if this is a bad bottle...I can't smell it on me at all!" To which I have to reply, "You smell amazing, you always do."

Obsession - a groundbreaking ambery oriental with amazing longevity and sillage, though minimal development, interweaves white petals of jasmine and orange blossom with warm vanilla and sweet amber, and to me, this is the mother of all 80's power orientals, and my favorite of Mom's recent selections. Happy Mother's Day, Mom!

Rating (out of 10): 9

What is your favorite scent that Mom has worn through the years?

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Givenchy, Greenergy (2000)

2006-05-13T11:49:00.000-04:00

Notes: Tarragon, lemon, and vetiver are commonly listed, but I'm not sure that they're correct.

1.7 oz edt spray: Retail price $42; Amazon.com $13.90

The Bottom Line: My favorite green fragrance, not too herbal, not too sweet, not too citrusy: Perfection. I love the sweet grassy notes tempered with the light, soft woods and musk. Not as leafy as Sisley Eau de Campagne and with much better lasting power, nor as citrusy as Bvlgari Green Tea with a warmer drydown, Greenergy is a fresh, clean scent that makes me feel great whenever I wear it.

Decants available, email me!

ASK MARLEN: A stack of boxes

2006-05-13T08:06:00.000-04:00

Marlen,

Do you throw away your perfume boxes? I've just started this addiction and trust most of your reviews. I'm hooked.

Thanks,
N

Dear N,

Ya know, I don't keep the boxes in general, unless I think I might give the scent away as a gift or in a swap. So I'd say that 75% of my scents don't have boxes. Yes, keeping the fragrance in the box can protect it from heat and light which can both lead to the breakdown and early "spoiling" of your fragrance, but it's also a pain in the ass to take a scent out of its box every time I want to spray it or decant it. It's probably a good idea to keep fragances in boxes, but I'm far too lazy.

Hope this helps!
Marlen

"To keep or not to keep" boxes...that is today's question.

Holy, Mother! Part IV: Cartier Must pour Femme (1981)

2006-05-13T07:36:00.000-04:00

#2) Not sure how Mom stumbled onto this one, but it became her signature scent for a while. She loved the powdery vanilla finish and bright floral topnotes. More than likely, I had bought it for myself, she commented on how great it was, and once again, I gave her my bottle.

MUSTde Cartier pour Femme

Notes: Galbanum, Mandarin, Neroli, Rose, Jasmine, Daffodil, Amber, Vetiver, Patchouli, Vanilla, and Tonka bean.

Pros: A beautiful green oriental with an almost grassy tone to the topnotes, and sweet amber-vanilla basenotes.

Cons: None

Reminds me of: In the style of Safari (green oriental) and L'Instant (ambery oriental).

Where can I buy it? $35.95 for a 50 ml edt spray at FragranceShop.com.

The Bottom Line: The current rendition of Must is truly a must-try for those who love vanilla and amber orientals. Having always dismissed it, a sales associate at Neimans sneaked a bottle over to the counter where I was sniffing and it was love at first encounter. Long before the men's counterpart launched, I myself wore Must and still do - the pure perfume is magnificent. On Mom's skin, the green topnotes are subdued and the powdery basenotes take centerstage. Definitely one of the classics of the last 25 years.

Rating (out of 10): 9

Is there a scent that both you and Mom enjoy wearing?

REVIEW: Kiehls, Original Musk

2006-05-12T11:26:00.000-04:00

Notes: Bergamot Nectar, Orange Blossom, Rose, Lily, Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Tonka Nut, White Patchouli and, Musk.

Pros: Doesn't smell like Aqua Net hairspray; a warm powdery musk with a floral heart and somewhat animalic basenotes.

Cons: May smell slightly medicinal to some.

Reminds me of: Novaya Zarya Arome Musc; The Body Shop Musk oil; Keiko Mecheri Musc

Development: The scent doesn't really develop as much as it relaxes.

Longevity: Not bad: Lasted a few hours and then left a soft second-skin aroma.

Sillage: I'm still not sure about this one. It seemed quieter than I had expected, but with a musk scent, that might be a good thing.

Where can I buy it? $27.90 for a 3.4 oz edt spray at PerfumeBay.com.

Bottleworthy? Try this one before you buy - the basenotes may be a little too harsh for some tastes. If you're a musk freak, like I am, go for it!

The Bottom Line: I've long been wanting a bottle of Kiehls Musk, having been a fan of the musk oil since my days working at Nieman Marcus. Though not my favorite musk, this is an easy-to-wear, everyday scent that won't break the bank. It's not so sweet so as to be cloying, and has an animalic tinge in the basenotes which I personally like, but might be unpleasant to some. Overall, warm, comforting, and soothing, Kiehls is light enough for me to wear a spray or two during the warmer summer months...and I think I will.

Rating (out of 10): 7

What's your favorite musk scent?

Decants available, email me!

MUST-READS: Gucci Envy Review at Now Smell This

2006-05-12T10:55:00.000-04:00

click the pic to read the review

MULTIMEDIA: A Ba-a-a-a-a-a-ad Idea for a Scent

2006-05-12T10:52:00.000-04:00

Click the pic above to watch the short film.

The perfect gift for Mother's Day,

LÂMB

the fragrance

Holy, Mother! Part III: Gucci Rush for Women (1999)

2006-05-12T09:42:00.000-04:00

#3) I was surprised when Mom started wearing this, as it isn't her general style of scent. I think I had given her this on a whim as a gift and she loved it so much, she went through a bottle in a matter of weeks. She especially loved the vanilla and fruity-floral notes in the composition.

Gucci Rush for Women

Notes: Gardenia, Freesia, Jasmine, Damascene rose, Coriander, Vanilla, Patchouli, and Vetiver.

Pros: Unusual fresh floral with an almost fruity tang and a sweet oriental drydown.

Cons: I'd love something slightly more complex. But that's not really a con, now is it?

Reminds me of: Joop! All About Eve; Cacharel Amor Amor.

Where can I buy it? $21.89 for a 50ml tester edt spray at Scentiments.com.

The Bottom Line: I could swear there is apple in there...smells like a fresh ripe apple with some vanilla ice cream sitting on a table next to a vase of sweet freesia. But it isn't really all that sweet. Not really as sweet as Amor Amor. I like this one; I like the character and final result on the skin. It's unusual and not too "in-your-face", but it's also lacking something. I feel like I am watching a play and all I see so far are the glorious sets and there's none of the spectacle yet. I'd like a little spectacle. And on a sidenote, Rush 2 (black currant and lily) , and Rush Summer (tangerine) are just as easy to love.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Which of your favorite scents has the "swear it's there" mystery note?

Mother's Day Fundraising

2006-05-11T14:17:00.000-04:00

Just a small reminder that this Sunday, May 14th, a mass-blog fundraising campaign will take place. For each comment left on this blog between May 10th and May 15th, a $1 donation will be made to Orphan Foundation of America.

Please help us by leaving comments on the Scenteur7 blog or by agreeing to match Scenteur7's donation.

The current list of participating bloggers:

Beauty Addict for Orphan Foundation of America

Brain Trapped in Girl's Body

Legerdenez for Orphan Foundation of America

Perfume Posse for Orphan Foundation of America

Perfumery for FINCA International

Perfume-Smellin' Things for Orphan Foundation of America

The Scented Salamander for Orphan Foundation of America

Scenteur 7 for Orphan Foundation of America *Participating May 10th through the
15th!*

Scentzilla! for FINCA International

SmellyBlog for FINCA International

The Soap Blog for UNIQUE

Urban Chick for Womankind Worldwide *Participating May 12th ONLY*

Victoria's Own for FINCA International

NEW RELEASE: Cacharel, Amor pour Homme

2006-05-11T10:01:00.000-04:00

click pic to view more information

AMOR pour HOMME

new from Cacharel

Scenteur7's other Cacharel Reviews:
Cacharel Nemo for Men
Cacharel Amor Amor

Holy, Mother! Part II: Cacharel, Anaïs Anaïs (1978)

2006-05-11T09:44:00.000-04:00

#4) This fragrance was a favorite of my mom's when I was a young teenager. I remember being surprised that she chose this new perfume because it was a light, fresh floral and Mom had always loved sweet orientals.

Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel

Notes: Madonna Lily, Hyacinth, Muguet, Black Currant, Citrus, Jasmine, Rose, Orange Blossom, Iris, Ylang Ylang, Vetiver, Cedar, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk, Russian Leather.

Pros: Sophisticated floral with a dewy freshness and warm musky base.

Cons: Having been around for nearly 30 years, this might be a very familiar scent to some.

Reminds me of: Hard to compare, but in the same ball park are Estee Lauder Pleasures, J del Pozo Esencia de Duende, and Van Cleef and Arpels First.

Where can I buy it? $25.90 for a 50 ml edt tester spray; $35.90 for a 100ml edt tester spray at PerfumeBay.com.

The Bottom Line: A unique composition when compared to the plethora of aldehyde and chypre fragrance launches of the late 70's. I always loved the fresh topnotes - like sticking your head into a florist's refrigerator; soft petals - and thought this a very feminine fragrance. Recently, fellow male fragrance afficianados have been singing its praises as well, commenting on the warm basenotes, specifically the leather. After trying it at duty free recently, I concluded that it just didn't work for me...the hyacinth and lily are a little too "lovely" for me, but mainly I suppose because this is truly the scent of Mom.

Rating (out of 10): 8

Has your mom ever worn a scent that surprised you?

ASK MARLEN: The Birley Lalique

2006-05-11T07:59:00.000-04:00

Hi Marlen,

Just wondering if you had any thoughts on Mark Birley? I recalled sampling it a couple of years ago in the UK but can't recollect my notion of it! Am curious again…! Finally, I really loved the decant you sent me of Eau de Lalique…..could you please recommend where you got it from? I see it on Ebay every now and then so am wondering if that’s the go or you may know of any online vendor…

As always, thanks in advance…..
SHi S,

You know, I tried Mark Birley a few years ago when it was all the rage...I remember it distinctly: I was sitting at the back of a small touring van in Shanghai with my friend Susie. We had spent the day sightseeing and I needed a little scented pick-me-up, so I reached into my backpack and pulled out my sample spray of Mark Birley. I was feeling very positive about trying it out because I had heard so many positive things about it. Well...was I ever surprised. Let's just say that Mark and I didn't get along. He was sharp-edged with an overbearing personality and a complete lack of depth. I couldn't wait to wash it off.

As for Eau de Lalique, that was another surprise: I was browsing Saks in New York City, trying to stay hidden from the pesky sales associates when I noticed an odd-looking rectangular bottle I had never seen before. Closer inspection revealed that it was Eau de Lalique, and a couple of shpritzes revealed that it kicked ass! I was immediately hooked and to this day am still totally smitten with this surprisingly fresh, light yet full-bodied aroma with notes of Mandarin, Cardamom, Citron, Bergamot, Dill, Freesia, Hibiscus, Cinnamon, Amyris Wood, Sandalwood, Benzoin, White Musk, and Guaiac wood. It's like a classic eau de cologne but with a pleasant twist. I believe you can find the large 6.60z edt spray for about $30 on Ebay, and it should be pretty reliable.

Hope this helps!
Marlen

The Thrill of It All has a new look and new post!

2006-05-10T21:59:00.000-04:00

click the pic to visit the journal

http://thethrillofitallblog.blogspot.com/

A new look...

In more ways than one.

Holy, Mother! Part I: Angel for Men (A*Men) (1996)

2006-05-10T11:40:00.000-04:00

Well, only 5 more days until we honor the spirit of spending, I mean, the spirit of Mom. Just picture the women around the country who will be simultaneously spraying bottles of perfume bought for them by their adoring families. And then think of how many of those will sit unused, month after month, year after year, just waiting, longing to be sprayed, collecting dust. Ah well...such is the price paid for trying to guess something so personal as another person's taste in fragrance.

Anyhow, in the spirit of Mother's Day, I'll recap my 5 favorite fragrances worn by the one, the only, the mother of yours truly, Mom.

#5) This is a scent that Mom loved in the late 90's. Though the female counterpart was quickly becoming a retail phenomenon, the men's scent was just gaining speed.

Angel for Men

Notes: Bergamot, Lavender, Coriander, Peppermint, Patchouli, Atlas Cedar, Coffee, Styrax, Tonka, Musk.

Pros: Startlingly original and amusing with an amazing array of notes; the standouts here are the patchouli and the coffee, softened and accented by a sweet powdery musk. Nowhere to be found are marine, ozonic, citrus or floral notes - this is all woods, spices and musk.

Cons: Definitely not run-of-the-mill, this is a love it or hate it scent with few opinions between. The patchouli may be too much for some.

Reminds me of: Hard to compare, but in the same category, perhaps Rochas Man, Yohji Homme, L'Artisan L'Eau du Navigateur, MPG Eau des Iles, Dior Homme.

Where can I buy it? $32.75 for a 50ml edt spray tester at BigDiscount.com

The Bottom Line: One of the most unusual men's fragrances of the last 10 years, I believe I gave up my first bottle to Mom because she commented every time I wore it just how great it smelled. Let's not even get into the psychology of sharing a scent with Mom, but, hey, she liked it, I worked in fragrance, let's keep it simple. Anyhow, partial to powdery orientals, Mom smelled great and it was amazing how the aroma changed with her skin. Nowadays, her husband wears it and again, I gave up the bottle. Though I don't often reach for it anymore, hence the 2nd giving, I think of it fondly.

Rating (out of 10): 9

Has your mom ever worn a men's scent?

BATH & BODY: Neutrogena Body Mist Sunblock

2006-05-10T10:12:00.000-04:00

What is it? Sunblock in a spray; 45 SPF; waterproof, sweatproof.

Why should I buy it? Smells amazing, non-greasy, easy to spray on, and cools the skin on contact.

Where can I buy it? $8.49 for 5oz spray at CVS.com

What does it smell like? With an aroma akin to cucumber-melon (think Kenzo for Men, or New West for Women) with a little CSP Aqua Motu for good measure, this is definitely not your typical sunscreen. The scent remains subtle and will easily work with a number of your favorite summer scents.

The Bottom Line: Easy to use, great-smelling, effective protection, not greasy...what more could I ask for? Yes, the price is a little high - it's a spray, and I suspect I lose a little into the wind each time I spray - but I would definitely buy this again.

The day that I wore this, I wore Geir by Geir Ness (see my review by clicking HERE), and I'm happy to say that for one of the first times, my sunscreen didn't clash with my fragrance.

Additional Information:

Broad spectrum UVA/UVB. Instantly cools as it protects. Refreshes with every application. Non-greasy, waterproof. No. 1 Dermatologist recommended suncare. Sunblock so refreshing, you'll look forward to applying. Cools and revives skin on contact. One touch continuous spray works at any angle. Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores). Lightweight formula absorbs quickly - no need to rub. Waterproof, sweatproof, resists running into eyes. The American Cancer Society (ACS) and Neutrogena, working together to help prevent skin cancer, support the use of sunscreen. Made in USA of domestic and foreign components.

Ingredients:

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (3.0%), Homosalate (15.0%), Octisalate (5.0%), Octocrylene (2.35%), Oxybenzone (6.0%). Inactive Ingredients: SD-Alcohol 40-2 (58%), Isobutane, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Napthalate, Trisoloxane, Dimethicone, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Menthyl PCA, Lauryl PCA, Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Fragrance.

Rating (out of 10): 8

Which sunsceen (that you enjoy) do you find to have the most unusual scent?

Scenteur7 makes Top Ten list

2006-05-10T09:30:00.000-04:00

Congrats to the following perfume sites that have been listed along with Scenteur7 by TopTenSources.com as the best resources on the net for information about fragrance:

Top Ten Sources publishes:

...a daily "Top 10" site of the best newsfeeds on the Internet. Each day, our team of editors picks a topic. Then, we find the ten best sources on the Net on that topic that offer newsfeeds- whether they're blogs, mainstream media, or anybody else publishing great stuff online. We subscribe to their RSS feeds and present them to you in a fresh, new site using our aggregator technology. Top 10's staff is comprised primarily of editors, researchers, and very friendly technologists. The Top 10 editorial team employs an iterative methodology with a constant core -- combining technical metrics with nuanced editorial judgment -- to draw together and contextualize the freshest, most relevant content on the web. Editors and researchers have developed subject matter expertise and track closely the communities on the web that are established, and constantly re-established, around ideas and topics.

RANT: And the award goes to...

2006-05-10T07:16:00.000-04:00

A few of my fellow fragrance bloggers have decided that today we'll all try to review our top 5 Genius scents (groundbreaking scents that we love); and top 5 Evil genius scents (groundbreaking scents that we can't stand). So, without further ado...

5 Genius fragrances (in random order)

Calvin Klein Eternity - CK Eternity for Men changed the way we look at men's fragrances, introducing light, fresh marine notes into a market that had been saturated with orientals and spicier wood/leather compositions.
Helmut Lang Cologne - a brilliant composition focusing on musk and floral aromas that took some time to get used to, but has completely won me over...Sadly, not a noteworthy success commercially, but definitely a success creatively.
Comptoir Sud Pacifique Motu - perhaps better than any other scent at creating the aura of summer - fresh cut grass, ocean waves, warm sands.
Calvin Klein Obsession - started the men's amber-oriental craze. There have been many imitators and few true competitors.
Geir by Geir Ness - a true stand alone creation, nothing compares to Geir's crisp green aroma resting on Alpine woods and herbs. See my review by clicking HERE.

Runners-up: L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme, Kenzo pour Homme, Knize Ten

5 Evil Genius Fragrances (in random order)

Escada Casual Friday - though definitely not my favorite fragrance in the world, Casual Friday was one of the first mass-market attempts at a men's scent with coffee beans in the basenotes. Now it seems we can't get enough coffee. I wonder if Starbucks had anything to do with this.
Cool Water - following in the footsteps of its predecessor, Eternity, this one just couldn't hold a candle to many of those scents it inspired. Partly responsible for a good decade of completely uninteresting and derivative marine scents. Now we have about 6 variations to choose from that all smell pretty much the same.
Fahrenheit - I loved it 15 years ago, but who knew it was gonna stick around this long, and so successfully? Now, it's just the smell of too many memories.
Kenzo Air - amazing that a fragrance that smells like nothing could be so popular. I still don't know what it smells like.
CK One - could anything have been less interesting and yet more successful? See my review with Robin of NowSmellThis by clicking HERE.

Runners-up: Gaultier Le Male; Cacharel pour Homme; Aramis

Ok - your turn!

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK: Bandit (1944)

2006-05-09T08:02:00.000-04:00

Notes: Orange, Tuberose, Jasmine, Rose, Leather, Wood

1 oz pure Parfum: Retail price $160; Parfum1.com $39.95

The Bottom Line: It's time to get more pure parfum into your collection, and this Robert Piguet classic is a great place to start at around $40 for a full ounce of pure parfum. Known for its ferocious basenotes of leather and warm woods, Bandit also has a lightly floral (somewhat powdery) overture before plunging into chypre wickedness. Save this one for those special summer nights and hey, go easy on the application - a little goes a long way. Perfect for those who like their scents with a little whip snap.

MEN'S GROOMING: Bvlgari, Aqua After Shave Emulsion

2006-05-09T07:43:00.000-04:00

Notes: Orange-tree petitgrain, Mandarin Orange, Santoline, Posidonia, Sea Notes, Amber, Woods.

What is it? A scented after shave emulsion.

Why should I buy it? Lightweight, fast-drying, non-greasy; subtly scented, so works well as a compliment to other fragrances!

Where can I buy it? $27.99 for 100ml at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

The Bottom Line: Another winning product from Bvlgari, this time in the Aqva aroma. The fragrance itself kind of bored me, nice but uninspired. But the after shave emulsion is the perfect answer to adding a little extra scent to the skin after a shave. The same texture as the previously reviewed Bvlgari pour Homme After Shave Emulsion, this light, milky skin soother works great on sunburnt skin as well. Trust me.

Rating (out of 10): 7 (5 for the aroma, 9 for the actual lotion)

Do you have a favorite "aqua" scented grooming product?

REVIEW: Hanae Mori, HM (Men) (1997)

2006-05-08T16:05:00.000-04:00

Notes: Lemon, Lavender, Blackcurrant, Green notes, Iris, Jasmine, Muguet, Bulgarian Rose, Moss, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Cedarwood, Chocolate, and Amber.

Pros: One of the most unusual men's fragrances of the 90's; a one-of-a-kind gourmand oriental; wonderful jasmine notes really shine.

Cons: May be a bit too sweet for some.

Reminds me of: Absolutely unique.

Development: As the scent moves from shimmering fruit and floral notes to the warmer woods and gourmand notes, the sweetness subsides somewhat and the scent's amber hues warm the skin.

Longevity: Excellent, the edt lasts forever on me.

Sillage: Just right - not too loud, not too quiet...

Where can I buy it? $23.89 for a 100ml edt spray at Scentiments.com.

Bottleworthy? Absolutely, in fact, this is one that is definitely not limited to men!

The Bottom Line: An unusual fragrance that might just change the way you think about men's fragrance. Long before Dior offered us an Homme of iris and chocolate, Mori-san was already getting creative. One of my favorite highlights of the composition is the glorious use of jasmine. Though the fragrance is seemlessly blended, the jasmine is perhaps the one note that truly stands out to my nose...well, perhaps along with the blackcurrant. Overall, a scent for any ocasion, though perhaps better suited to cooler weather. The Eau Fraiche version is just as enticing, though the fruit and gourmand notes are slightly less sweet.

Rating (out of 10): 9

Decants available, email me!

Have you tried HM yet?

TRIVIA: Nacho Grande

2006-05-07T19:19:00.000-04:00

The next time I order something Nacho-ish, I might be asking for this colored variation on a famous men's scent. Here's a pic to give you a little help:

What scent am I referring to?

IMAGES: The Sophistication of Armani

2006-05-07T19:12:00.000-04:00

Armani Pour Homme, 1987

IMAGES: Under-the-covers Agent

2006-05-07T08:37:00.000-04:00

My step-mother, Shelley, le nouveau Agent Provocateur.

FOR THE HOME: Caldrea, Rose and Pink Peppercorn

2006-05-07T07:57:00.000-04:00

What is it? A rose and pink peppercorn room and linen spray accented with coconut and sandalwood. Essential oils of rose, pepper, mandarin and clove.
Why should I buy it? Reminds me of Chantecaille's Wisteria fragrance oddly enough, but this is a wonderful soft and spicy rose aroma - more like fresh petals than grandma's perfume.

Where can I buy it? $15.50 for 4 oz non-aerosol spray at TrouveOnline.com.

The Bottom Line: I bought mine on sale at Nordstrom's for about $6, so keep those eyes peeled! I wish the aroma had greater longevity, but I love the aroma so much, I don't really mind. I also sprayed it on towels and linens.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

What's your favorite rose-scented product for the home?

WISHLIST: Diptyque, Eau de Lierre

2006-05-06T12:36:00.000-04:00

Diptyque's new Eau de Lierre at Aedes.com

"The sheer peppery notes of Eau de Lierre introduce the heart of ivy and iris, as delicate as a cool spring breeze. Supported by a base of white musk and silky woods, Eau de Lierre remains verdant and sparkling, like a transparent veil of dew on young green leaves." Aedes.com

REVIEW: Romeo Gigili Woman (2004)

2006-05-06T12:16:00.000-04:00

Notes: Mandarin, Tagetes, Melon Cantaloupe, Green Tea, Violet Leaves, Sea Breeze, Rose Morocco, Indian Jasmine, White Nymphaea, Lotus Flowers, Licorice, Orris Florence, Musk, Cedarwood, Benzoin Siam, Vanilla Zanzibar.

Pros: An unusual floriental with fresh green overtones and a warm musky base.

Cons: Hard to find as its been discontinued.

Reminds me of: Insense for Men (with its musky-woody basenotes); Kenzo Le Monde est Beau ( with its sunny citrus and florals); Eau de Monteil (with its sweet dewy notes).

Development: Moves from powdery floral to fresh, watery green notes and back again before settling into a sweet, musky woods aroma.

Longevity: Excellent, one full spray lasted a good 6 hours on my wrist.

Sillage: Enough so that it could be sensed by my friends without overwhelming them.

Where can I buy it? $29.99 for a 1.3 oz edp spray at BeautifulPerfumes.com.

Bottleworthy? If you enjoy unusual or powdery florals.

The Bottom Line: I love this scent - utterly unique. My favorite of Romeo Gigli's women's scents, I love the combinations (melon, green tea and violet) of notes. As good as its men's counterpart, Gigli Woman is an unusual and beautiful fragrance that really shines as it dries on the skin revealing an almost incense-like woody melange of basenotes. The strong floral topnotes might be a bit much for some, but once they relax, the scent becomes even more alluring.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

Which women's florals do you find utterly unique?

REVIEW: Romeo Gigli Man (2004)

2006-05-06T11:53:00.000-04:00

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Yuzu, Mirth, Cinnamon, Geranium, Pepper, Bamboo, Patchouli, Hiba Wood, Musk.

Pros: A tangy, aromatic aroma that makes great use of some of my favorite notes.

Cons: Discontinued; not a very heavy scent - would love a little more depth.

Reminds me of: T Gregory; Celine pour Homme.

Development: Though the citrus plays a huge role in the beginning stages, the spice notes and musk play a larger role in the drydown.

Longevity: Moderate; it goes on strong but then quickly relaxes.

Sillage: Subtle but present.

Where can I buy it? $33.99 for a 3.4 oz edt spray at ImaginationPerfumery.com.

Bottleworthy? A great men's scent to add to any collection

The Bottom Line: By no means groundbreaking or exceptional, Romeo Gigli Man is not nearly the rich oriental that his first men's scent was. What it is, however, is the Gigli version of CK Contradiction, only better - a light peppery citrus with smooth musk and wood notes. Easy to wear and great for any occasion, this addition to the Gigli fragrance collection helps to confirm my belief that it's hard to go wrong with a Gigli scent. I have no idea why this one wasn't as popular as it could have been - I love it.

Rating (out of 10): 7

Decants available, email me!

What's your take on the scents of Romeo Gigli?

WEBSITES and E-TAILERS: Beauty Addict Magazine's Blog

2006-05-05T17:19:00.000-04:00

REVIEW: Guerlain, Habit Rouge (1965)

2006-05-05T13:39:00.000-04:00

Notes: Orange, Limette, Lemon, Bergamot, Spices, Patchouli, Vanilla, Leather notes.

Pros: Timeless. Fresh enough for warmer weather, sophisticated enough for evening.

Cons: "Timeless" may also spell "outdated" to some.

Reminds me of: Roger Gallet Extra Vielle.

Development: Minimal.

Longevity: The current EDT lasts very well on me. This is no tame fragrance.

Sillage: Just right.

Where can I buy it? $21.38 for a 3.4 oz edt spray tester at Scentiments.com

Bottleworthy? Everyone's gotta try this at least once...and for that price, why not go whole hog?

The Bottom Line: One of Guerlain's more recent masterpeices, Habit Rouge is unquestionably one of the finest examples of 20th century men's perfumery. But does it smell good? Well yes; an unusual blend of vanilla and citrus with powdery leather basenotes, Habit Rouge always reminds me of a fine, full-bodied gin. Picture a sleek 1960's mahogany and chrome bar. Perched atop is a heavy crystal glass filled with an aromatic clear liquid and ice. The air is perfumed with Habit Rouge as a young Sinatra croons in the background...

Rating (out of 10): 8

Decants available, email me!

Have you experienced Habit Rouge?

REVIEW: Penhaligon's Opus 1870 (2005)

2006-05-05T13:24:00.000-04:00

Notes: Black pepper, clove rose, warm woods, musk.

Pros: Light, unassuming, surprisingly fresh considering the notes.

Cons: Sillage and longevity are minimal.

Reminds me of: Has the same lightness as Sander for Men; L'Artisan Navegar; similar framework as Hermes Rocabar.

Development: None really...The pepper quickly fades leaving a light, rose and woods aroma.

Longevity: Minimal - 2 hours that I could actually smell it on me, and then it stayed close to the skin.

Sillage: Quiet.

Where can I buy it? $80 for a 100ml spray at Penhaligons.

Bottleworthy? Better try this one first...

The Bottom Line: I'm a huge fan of Hammam and Endymion, and have an appreciation for many of the others, so it was with high hopes that I blindly purchased this. Truly a simple and sophisticated scent for warmer weather, Opus 1870 is a quiet fragrance that stays close to the skin. The rose lends a sweet floral hint, but most of the fragrance's personality comes from the warm woods. Reminding me of a "Rocabar Light", I almost detect a little leather and tobacco. I think this could easily be a holy grail scent for some folks, so best not to dismiss this one and try and give it some time on your skin. I still can't decide whether I like it or I'll pass on it....

Rating (out of 10): 6

Decants available, email me!

What's your favorite Penhaligon's scent?

MUST-READS: Monsieur de Givenchy Review at NowSmellThis

2006-05-05T13:22:00.000-04:00

Click the pic to read my review of Monsieur de Givenchy
at NowSmellThis!

Decants available, email me!

MUST-READS: New interview with Rene Laruelle at Basenotes

2006-05-04T19:02:00.000-04:00

Modern Perfumer Inspired by Scents of the Past:

An interview with René Laruelle

Click the above pic to read the latest of Scenteur7's interviews with noteworthy perfumers.

MULTIMEDIA: Be Warned

2006-05-04T12:33:00.000-04:00

click the pic to watch the video

This stuff needs to come with a second warning specifically for teenage boys:
Not to be used in place of actual bathing.

SNIFFING AROUND: 2 from TJ Maxx - Hula Girl and Eau Vitaminee

2006-05-04T12:06:00.000-04:00

Spent some time browsing TJ Maxx yesterday and here's a couple of lesser known, though completely interesting finds...

Hula Girl Cocount and Vanilla Body Mist

Notes: Coconut, vanilla

Pros: Kitschy packaging and low pricepoint; would make a swell gag gift - no pun intended.

Cons: Smells like a Vanillaroma car freshener.

Reminds me of: what did I just say?

The Bottom Line: Currently just $16.25 at ToniasTreasures, or perhaps even less at your local Maxx, this is a fun way to stink yourself up in the tropical aroma of a beachside cocktail. Longlasting (if you only knew) and inexpensive, the perfect summer gift for that person into Hula memorabilia or someone you truly despise.

Rating (out of 10): 3

Biotherm Eau Vitaminee Spray Refreshing Body Mist

Notes: citrus fruit, grapefruit, floral jasmine, freesia, white lily and white musk.

Pros: Inexpensively priced at your local Maxx; Vitamin E and citrus oil essences make skin soft and supple.

Cons: A bizarre misch-masch of notes that while fresh-smelling, certainly isn't terribly appealing.

Reminds me of: Didn't bring too much to mind, but then I wasn't really focused on associations while scrubbing my right wrist for the 4th time.

The Bottom Line: Also available at Nordies for a whopping $36, this "refreshing fragrance mist" may be perfect to take to the beach for a refreshing after-sun shpritz. Alternatively, cut a grapefruit in half and squeeze it all over your sun-tanned body.

Rating (out of 10): 4